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Member postings for Andy King

Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: In this month's Good Woodworking
23/10/2008 12:58:00

Hi Jim,

 the correct email Jon is: john.bentman@myhobbystore.com
Quite why there an 'H' in there is anyone's guess!

As for the turning, Good Woodworking has always had turning in it, although we don't seem to have the entry level stuff like we used to.
I think with magazines such as ours that are designed for woodworking in general rather than specialising on a specific area, there is likely to be a part where its not going to appeal to everyone.
Turning is a good example as it is often its own subject, and you can make plenty of things without going near any other woodworking, but there are others who may find it useful if  they want to incorporate turning within traditional cabinetry work for instance.

It's always going to be a tricky balance when there are numerous subjects to cover!

 cheers,

Andy

15/10/2008 08:57:00

Hi Mike,

Yep, Reggie was in and out of the Gloucester side when JR was on test duty and did well enough, but how do you permanently dispose the then England No1! He was being chased by a few counties at the time, but stayed loyal to them, which probably cost him a bit more fame and maybe fortune.

As for the joint? It's used on boat hatches as it has water integrity from both sides of the joint. A standard dovetail has an open shoulder. You could use a rebate without the splay, but the old shipwright who introduced me to it when I was involved in building a replica ship in Bristol said it was tradition to show the bevelling, so I've done them like it since. I'm unlikely to use it elsewhere, i have to admit!
I watched Rob Cosman demoing at Axminster a few years ago and he runs a micro rebate along one part of the joint as a solid reference for marking out and a clean line, so I suppose that could be an adaptation.

Andy

14/10/2008 14:01:00

Hi Mike (G)

This is the joint Olly was on about.
The top pic shows how it should look when you cut through a tail when removing for a lid etc.

(slightly off topic, did you ever play against Richard 'Reggie' Williams who was understudy to Jack Russell? He used to play for our local team when he could - took a few catches and stumped a few off my bowling, which i'm pretty chuffed with! - Great bloke as well!)

cheers,

Andy

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/4436/double3.JPG

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/4436/double1.JPG

http://www.getwoodworking.com/sites/5/images/member_albums/4436/double2.JPG

Thread: softwood only :-(
14/10/2008 10:32:00

They do indeed Olly, but I was referring to Travis Perkin as a supplier as Zac had posted that he lives near one and they used to stock u/s redwood in the Bath branch, so maybe the Brighton one does as well. Bristol is a bit far from Brighton!

cheers,

Andy

Thread: In this month's Good Woodworking
14/10/2008 10:27:00
OPJ wrote (see)

I hadn't even heard of a double-rebate dovetail joint before.


Ah, well Olly, that's because it's called a double rabbeted dovetail as I said in the feature! Traditional UK boatbuilding terminology over americanism here I believe!

 cheers,

Andy

Thread: softwood only :-(
13/10/2008 22:40:00

I tend to think the opposite - I agree pine is cheaper so not so damaging on the pocket when mistakes are made, but as it compresses more readily than common hardwoods such as oak, sapele etc, you can get away with a slightly tight joint that may split in hardwoods.
Working with harder timbers almost forces you to become more accurate from the off, and that's what I tend to recommend.
If I was to go for softwood, I'd recommend good quality redwood, U/S (unsorted) grade for joinery, but again, not all timber yards stock this, the Travis Perkins in Bath used to stock, but not any more, last time I wanted joinery timber from them it was more like floor joists! Hopefully you may be luckier in Brighton!

 cheers,

Andy

Thread: searching for a jig
13/10/2008 14:46:00
Hi James, the marker is made by Woodjoy in the USA. It's one I had sent over for review a few years back and i thought it was fantastic (although Pete Martin didn't quite see it the way I did and marked my review score down!) Anyway, you can get it in the UK directly from Classic handtools - here: http://www.classichandtools.com/acatalog/Tools-by-Woodjoy.html hope this helps, Andy
Thread: help
02/10/2008 09:17:00

Yep, as Big Al states.
The peripheral speed on a bigger cutter is increased if run at the same speed as a smaller diameter and therefore has to be slowed down to meet the same cutting ratios for safety.
Spindle moulders run on far lower speeds than routers for the same reason, and lathes should be slower on bigger diameter stock accordingly.

As others have mentioned, you should ensure that both cutter and collet extension are seated correctly, and check that the collet is clean (no resin build up etc) and is not deformed or damaged. You can actually overtighten collets and deform them.

Also, some collet extensions do extend the cutter a long way and therefore the cutter has a certain amount of 'whip'. (I think the Trend may be one of these - CMT do a similar one) I prefer the Xtreme Xtension sold by Woodworers Workshop www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk an identical model is sold by Rutlands here: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/XTENSION
These extensions also have a fast release cutter system, eliminating the need for spanners, its a matter of a quarter turn of a hex wrench to remove and replace a cutter.

hope this helps.

Andy

01/10/2008 20:41:00

Hi David,

 Panel raisers aren't meant to be used at full speed, they are low speed only. Firing them up to full whack makes them very unstable as you have found.
If you look at the Trend website, or in their catalogue they usually have recommended maximum speeds for the bigger cutters. This link: http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/safety-UK/ shows a chart with recommended speeds for cutter diameters. (bigger box, bottom left of the chart)

hope this helps,

Andy

Thread: Can any one help
23/09/2008 18:21:00
Hi Roger, it might be worth giving Derek Pyatt a call. He is very knowledgeable on old machinery and used to keep some pretty obscure spares for a huge variety of machines, and has great knowledge on most machines, so he may have something that will suit, or be able to recommend a suitable tyre. email: derek.pyatt@coronetwoodworking.co.uk tel: 01902 791656 hope this helps, Andy
Thread: powdered baize
19/09/2008 18:38:00

Hi Derek(s)

You are looking for this stuff, Suede -Tex, sold by Turners Retreat.
Different colours available, so should be one suitable.

http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/acatalog/Suede_Tex.html

Hope this helps,

Andy

Thread: Bandsaw set up problems
19/09/2008 17:04:00
Hi Chris, sounds like you either need to track the blade slightly forwards as it shouldn't allow the set of the teeth to address the side bearings under load, or move the thrust bearing closer to the back of the blade. The thrust bearing should be only 1mm or so from the back of the blade when free running. If you need to adjust the tracking,the knob at the back (with the locking turnscrew) needs to be adjusted so that the teeth of the blade move forwards on the wheels, and should be pretty well central or slightly forwards of the wheels tyre. If you back the side bearings well back so the blade has only the thrust bearings up in position, the tension should be around 6-10mm deflection under thumb pressure when pushed from the sides with the guide post right up at its highest position, but this will likely need tweaking to get the cut working well, its simply ballpark. Once it tracks the side guides can be moved into position, and it should be that when the thrust bearing engages, the side bearings should be positioned with the edges of the wheels just behind the tooth gullets. As for scoring the thrust bearing, two things here, one, it may be slightly seized so a bit of WD40 may help, but for me, I have never understood a bearing that spins having something running across its face, and in doing so, making it pretty difficult for it to do so! Some bandsaws have swung the thrust bearing through 90 degrees so the blade actually touches the edge and spins it as its designed to do. Makes far more sense to me! As for the noise, could be a combination of the guides being set wrong and also the tension. I looked at this saw a couple of issues back and it worked really well, with none of the problems you have mentioned. Hope this helps. Andy
Thread: Leigh Super Jig review
12/09/2008 13:25:00
Hi Brian, These type of comb jigs rely on fine tuning the height of the cutter to tighten or slacken the joint. If you use a couple of test pieces, make the joint as normal, and if it is too slack, lower the cutter projection marginally, this will make the tails slightly wider and should tighten the joint. (raising the cutter will loosen a tight joint) You may need to have a few test pieces ready to cut a few joints until you get the fit right. The manual should give you the depth of cut needed, so it should only be a very small amount needed to adjust the fit. A fine height adjust on the router is ideal in these situations. Once you have a joint that is perfect, cut a sample and use it as a setting gauge for the next time you use it and it should eliminate trial and error set ups. hope this helps. Andy
Thread: extraction system
09/09/2008 20:31:00

Oops! Just read the question again. If you are using a planer thicknesser, a bigger bore 100mm etc is best as the airflow is increased so more efficient. A bigger bore is best if the extractor airflow allows it, so i'd look at a 100mm pipework with maybe a reducer to 50mm on a blastgate for the sander router etc, using one motor as recommended by Record for this purpose.
I have a 63mm pipe system in my workshop which is fine for thicknessing narrower boards or jointing  but working a thicker cut often overwhelms the pipe and it blocks around the planer dust port, especially on pine with sharp knifes.
Ideally, the planer would be best kept as close as possible to the extractor with minimal bends or pipe runs for the best results.

 Andy

09/09/2008 20:23:00

Hi Sam,

 I think the DX4000 is the one with the twin motors?
If so, if I recall correctly, Record used to state that using both motors its designed for a 4in/100mm pipe, but if you link it to narrower bore such as 50mm/2in or small bore hose for routers, sanders etc, then you should only use one motor as the suction power is too much for the smaller bore hose and it will overload the unit.

hope this helps.

 Andy

Thread: The latest Good Woodworking (205)
08/09/2008 22:30:00
Hi Cedric, I touched upon the use of the slot mortice attachment in the machine morticing section, but the problem is, availability in the UK market. While it used to be a feature of the planer block, I can't recall seeing any standalone planer thicknesser currently on the market that uses the system. It is usually available as a separate purchase if you buy a combi or universal machine, but even then, its often a special order. Europe favours the slot morticer, but the Uk is pretty well all standard plunge morticers, so that was why it was touched upon, as the availability is limited in the UK market. Hope this clears it up. cheers, Andy
Thread: Why are Bandsaws Left-handed?
08/09/2008 13:11:00

Hi Mike,

The only right handed bandsaw I can recall is the Inca (PDF of the manual here): http://www.incamachines.com/eng/component/option,com_docman/task,cat_view/gid,4/Itemid,5/ 

They don't sell in the UK anymore as far as I'm aware though.

For feeding, on wider curved work especially, on a standard bandsaw a righthander would control and tweak the work position with the right hand and also support it while the left hand is mostly for feed pressure and to hold it down to the table. Reversed, the left hand has to guide the curve, so is not the dominant hand. Whether this is the main reasoning behind the design is anybody's guess!

cheers,

Andy

Thread: The latest Good Woodworking (205)
07/09/2008 23:32:00

Hi Clive,

Thanks for your kind words, much appreciated!

The idea of working through techniques and using the tools jiga and aids available is something I've wanted to do for a long time, I think it's important to discern the need for some jigs or tools against hand methods.

The morticing feature is one of those - you soon realise that while its nice to be able to hand chop mortices accurately, in the real world, maybe not the most practical!

On the other hand, i'm just finishing a similar styled feature on dovetailing for issue 207, and although there are plenty of jigs ot there that will do a fast and perfect joint, i've dusted off the dovetail saw and hand cut a range of dovetails with walkthrough pictures, and thoroughly enjoyed it.

The difference between the two joints has me firmly in the camp of machines for mortices but the hand cut dovetail can be varied so much more than most machines or jigs offer and has its own beauty.

I think in instance where the joint is 'showcase' the art of the woodworker should be explored, and while jigs are fine for fast joints, the ability to control hand tools and turn out a fine joint is one that as woodworkers, I think we are all hoping to achieve, and practice is definitely the order of the day!

best regards,

Andy

Technical Editor

Good Woodworking Magazine

Thread: Good Woodworking issue 203
03/07/2008 10:00:00

Hi Ralph,

 That's fair comment - but I think the idea may be to intrigue a non-forum reader to maybe take a peek and then remain and post. The other side of it is to indicate that although there is obviously woodwork there is also humour, so again, maybe a hook. Goodwood follows similar lines, hopefully offering good woodworking advice when required, but still able to show a little bit of humour or lightheartedness to keep it from being sterile.

cheers

Andy

02/07/2008 22:59:00

Hi Guys,

I've been a bit snowed under with mag stuff for the last week or so (deadlines!)

Anyway, just read through the postings here, and I think the idea of the small section on the Get Woodworking forum printed in Goodwood is much the same as is being discussed here, with some posters not reading magazines, the same may be said for the magazine readers who don't visit forums.

The idea, I would think, (though don't quote me on it, I don't do the editorial bits!) is to try and get mag readers to become forum active, and although not so likely, the occasional forum user buying the mag(s).

Content for projects, whether aspirational/inspirational or otherwise is always difficult, much the same as other mag content, trying to keep all readers or potential readers happy is always tricky.

Adjusting the balance towards one end alienates the other, and can lose readers, and it's often the case that American mags or furniture and cabinetmaking are discussed as they way to go.

Budgets for American mags are huge by comparison to UK ones, with an average of 100k plus readers and a staff of at least ten or more per mag. Here, both Woodworker and Goodwood run with only two or three full time editorial staff per magazine.

Furniture and cabinet is a very focussed mag, but has nowhere near the readership levels of Woodworker and Goodwood, and to try and go down that route would leave one or both in peril I would imagine, and there is a need for general woodworking that covers or touches more bases, which is where both our mags sit, albeit from different angles and approaches.

I hope by me writing this doesn't upset anyone, it's not my intention, it's just to try and clarify what i believe is the magazines positions. Even so, no doubt the posting have been read and noted at HQ, and i'm always happy to listen help and offer advice whenever I can, so feel free to post here or email me directly. Enail probably better if it's important,as it's all to easy to miss a posting on a busy forum!

andy.king3@btconnect.com or andy.king@magicalia.com the magicalia one is tempermental as it has to be e-routed through our server, so the BT one is often quicker and more reliable.

Oh yes Olly, I said Darren Lucozade!

Now a quick question for Ben -

why does my home computer (PC) keep making paragraphs when I hit the return instead of simply starting directly below? (like in this posting)

cheers,

Andy

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