Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cleaning sap off a saw|
One thing to maybe check is that the blade doesn't have a slight kink after it got jammed in the cut.
The back is meant to help prevent it, but it can happen. If it's kinked, it's unlikley worth the bother, but if its got a wave or slight buckle, you can get it out by turning the saw over, holding the handle and lightly tapping the back on the bench or a block of wood. It should hopefullt rreseat the blade deeper into the back and straighten any slight bends or buckles.
i've done it many times on old saws with folded backs, but the new trend of solid backs with a slit relying on adhesive as used by Lie Nielsen, adria etc doesn't give you much chance of any adjustments if the blade does move a little.
The theory is, I suppose, that the accuracy of the initial slit should kep the blade straight, but a jolt through the blade could still cause them to move.
Incidntally, as you thought, the coating on the blade is usually a light lacquer to keep rust at bay while in storage or on display.
hope this helps.
|Thread: Chisels V. Health & Safety|
Sounds to me like the only clots here are the jobsworths who get paid to come up with these ridiculous notions!
What about other situations where your hands strike things? Olga Korbut would have conked out halfway through her first routine in the olympics!
|Thread: What magazines do you read.|
I've only known Ben a very short while, but again, as you say, like Nick he is a great bloke, and very passionate about his woodwork and for this website and the mags to succeed.
We are certainly striving to give the best we can to everyone - not always easy trying to find a project/review/feature that will appeal to all, especially as we try to cater for a broad spectrum in both magazines and also keep both magazines fresh and vibrant.
Good to se we've just got our 3000th member, a great achievement in such a short space of time, Ben has worked unbelievably hard to get the website working well, and he's certainly done a great job in my eyes.
It's good to see members of other forums posting here regularly as well, this one feels like it's been running for years already, and that's a good thing!
I try and look in as much as I can, but I do miss stuff as I'm involved in the mag work, so if anyone wants to ask anything specific of me, please don't feel i'm ignoring you, it may be that i've missed it...
Having worked with both of them, I have to say, hand on heart, Nick and Phil are great guys - about as different as chalk and cheese in methods, but both very dedicated in what they do.
Me and Phil still meet up about once a month for mag stuff and of course, a doughnut!
It was sad that Nick didn't carry on as editor when we were sold, he has great vision and enthusiasm, as can be seen in his new magazine or if you meet him at shows. I knew when he told me about his new venture it would be high quality.
It's always nice for me to bump into him at a show as we seem to carry on where we left off, I used to have some great laughs with him. He is definitely a top bloke!
baz wrote (see)
Ah! The Beano! My first venture into the world of publishing! Apart from myself and my kids being in the Dennis the Menace fan Club (DING) I had two letters printed as well - One aged 21, the other aged 22!
PS. I also won a blue Peter badge when I was 34!
|Thread: The london woodworking show|
Ron Davis wrote (see)
Ah, the letter I presume? I think it was from my mum!
I've always maintained that my picture is handy on the mantlepiece to keep the kids away from the fire...
|Thread: Kity 619 cabinet saw|
|Ah, was that you with the other guy we asked to stand back while we took a picture? Sorry if it was, but hopefully we got a decent one from it, even with me in it! The router looks great doesn't it? Some good unique features, especially the plunge lock - very nice! cheers, Andy|
I can't remember offhand if the 619 has the same sort of fence set up as my Kity 419, but if it has the same aluminium box section extrusion along the front as a running rail, there are elongated slots it the holes that fit it to the table itself.
On mine, it was a simple matter of slackening the bolts of the running rail, putting the fence on and aligning it with the mitre slot until it was parallel, and nipping them back up.
The mitre fence running bar can be tightened by making a few indents into the top of the bar near the edge with a centrepunch. This makes a slight bump into the edges of the bar, tightening it in the slot. If it's too tight, you simply file the bumps down a little.
hope this helps.
|Thread: The london woodworking show|
|Paul Dennison wrote: |
Paul Dennison wrote (see)
Well, thanks for that Paul - Must've caught me on an off day though!
On a more serious note, I never really had chance to get off my stand and look around, there seemed to be a fair few people passing, but I couldn't judge the amount.
I think shows in general are harder than ever to get people to attend. D&M are probably the best at it, free entry certainly makes a big difference, and it's pretty easy to get to. The internet and the influx of Far Eastern tools has made a big dent in any profit margins the manufacturers and dealers could offer at shows in the past, so the bargains that used to pay for any entry fees are few and far between, the prices are already cut close to the bone. (I have a friend who runs a tool shop in Bristol and he has told me what he makes on some tools, and it's surprisingly little, especially with commercial overheads and staff to contend with)
Unfortunately, the knock on is punters are less likely to attend, so dealers start to think likewise, and it becomes a downwards spiral.
This was my first'real' show for Magicalia, I did last years as an employee of both future and Magicalia publishing while the deal went through, so wasn't party to any organisation, but Jez Walters, the show organiser has worked tirelessly to try and make this one a success, and I certainly don't envy him his job!
Over the course of the show, Jez has been pitching ideas trying to rally support from all corners to try and make the show better, and we have a few plans amongst us to hopefully make this happen. If we get onto it early enough, the anouncements of the plans will be such that the public and dealers alike will be able to judge whether this will make it more beneficial and to everyone. we hope it will be the case!
I'm sure any suggestions posted here that can make the show a better one for all concerned will certainly be discussed. Ben and the rest of the guys read the site, so we are all aware of your comments, and will certainly take on board any suggestions made here and if we can implement them, no doubt we will.
|Thread: Welcome to the turning section|
Any green as grass woodturners might be interested to know that we are about to start a feature of the woodturning novice (ME!) in Good Woodworking. Our resident genius woodturner Dave Roberts will be taking me under his wing to teach me the basics, with my thoughts on what I found easy or hard and Dave explaining why it can be so, and how to overcome problems, tool selection, you name it, he'll hopefully show me. Or punch me!
Once it's up and running, any readers with problems that they need help with can ask away and we'll try and build it into a 'how to' in the mag, with me hopefully trying to do turn the actual piece or technique that's a problem, and make my own comments and conclusions and Dave will then show and tell us all how to do it properly!
|Thread: Multico Multitool|
|Hi Steve, although I haven't seen the Multico, your description of its functions make it sound very similar to the Shopsmith sold in the UK by Craft Supplies. This has the same functions you mention, plus a jointer function. It's based plrimarily around a lathe type unit, so headstock, tailstock and bed bars, the headstock provinding the power for the jointer sander and saw units. It's a clever pice of equipment, although it can be a bit frustrating swapping between functions each time. I reviewed the Shopsmith way back in issue 96, and I also did a course at Craft Supplies to get to grips with it properly. It's certainly an option if you have limited space, plus its portable, so good if you need multifunctionality away from the workshop, but like most multifunction tools, limited in some aspects. If you need a copy of my test, you should be able to get them by calling the number on the 'Magicalia' link at the bottom of the page. Andy|
|Thread: NEW VERITAS PLANES|
|Or it would be if i could get the images to upload! bear with me!!!
|Hi all, been sworn to secrecy on this one until today, but boy has it been worth the wait! Veritas have announced two new planes today, the DX60 and the NX60. Both are low angle block planes, both having the same design attributes, but the NX60 is the Premium plane, made from a ductile cast iron with high nickel content to give it rust resistance and highly polished look. Take it from me, this plane is stunning to look at and even better to use! I've sent Ben some images and the official PDF press releases which he'll post up later, but he's a quick taster of what they look like. cheers, Andy|
|Thread: Triton Woodworking Tools|
I'm not 100 percent sure, but I don't think B&Q are stocking Triton any more, but its definitely the same brand. Pricing should be similar to original B&Q prices as far as I can tell, but I don't think you'll be seeing the 1/2 price sell offs that B&Q were doing a few months back!
|Thread: Record Universal|
You have the MiniMax C26 (Pus version as it has the Tersa block), the original Record C26 was a Lurem, now sold by Metabo.
The Kity Bestcombi is a great machine, if a little limited in capacities. It's essentially the 419 saw, the 429 Spindle and the 439 planer bolted together.
hope this helps,
|Thread: Quirk bead|
Malc wrote (see)
Err, you did Malc... I posted this url at the start of the thread, although it didn't appear as a link, saying to look at the corner bead option.
Still, it looks like a nice job anyway!
PS. this one doesn't appear as a link either! Must be me
Looking at your sketch again Malc, I think even with a scratch stock you won't get the undercut of the bead, the scratching action won't allow it, you'll end up with a semi circle, although a further profile could be used to introduce the final undercut as it doesn't have to remove too much timber once the bead is established.
A lot of work though!
|Hi Malc, Looking at your sketch, there aren't any router cutters that I have seen that will replicate that mould - it's impossible in a single pass, but there are ones that will do a similar one in two passes, but without the chamfer, you end up with a square quirk shoulder. To get this mould, I think the only way is with a scratch stock and a couple of suitable profiled cutters, one registering from the top edge, the other from the front face. This cutter here from Trend shows the bead a router will cut (look at the corner bead cutter) http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productsubgroup1/49/Bead%20&%20Reed.html hope this helps. Andy|
A quirk is simply a step in a moulding.
hope this helps.
Not sure what you mean by staying flat and true long term, the abrasives are self adhesive and stuck to 10mm thick toughened glass discs so you can have differing grits on each side and another disc loaded similarly (the 3000 version has spare disc plus slit version for gouges etc)
|Hi Richard, I looked at the Worksharp3000 in the latest issue of Good Woodworking. Its a nice piece of kit, although using it for turning or carving gouges is down to your own steady hand as they are addressed freehand to the wheel working the tool from underneath the wheel. I found it was a pretty easy operation, you have a wheel that has slits in it that allow you to see through and watch the bevel as the abrasive works, so you can tweak the tool to get the bevel orientated correctly. You do need a little care as you roll it over - its best to roll from the right to left as it can snag on a slit if you try to do it left to right if that makes sense! You can still get a snag if you roll too far, but I found it was more a lack of concentration here. It's not as versatile as a Tormek, but you need a lot of jigs with a Tormek for the consistency it offers. The Worksharp is a fast system, basically a powered version of Scary Sharp, and great for flattening backs on tools if needed as well as sharpening. The abrasive range is also good, you can coarse grind or hone as needed, although the consumables are where you will be spending your money more than with traditional methods. The abrasives can be cleaned up with a rubber cleaning stick (supplied) if needed, but they will obviously lose their bite over a period of time unlike a wet wheel or other grinder/honing stones. hope this helps. Andy|
Want the latest issue of The Woodworker & Good Woodworking? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
We're always happy to hear from you, so feel free to get in touch!