Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Leigh Super Jig review|
|Hi Brian, These type of comb jigs rely on fine tuning the height of the cutter to tighten or slacken the joint. If you use a couple of test pieces, make the joint as normal, and if it is too slack, lower the cutter projection marginally, this will make the tails slightly wider and should tighten the joint. (raising the cutter will loosen a tight joint) You may need to have a few test pieces ready to cut a few joints until you get the fit right. The manual should give you the depth of cut needed, so it should only be a very small amount needed to adjust the fit. A fine height adjust on the router is ideal in these situations. Once you have a joint that is perfect, cut a sample and use it as a setting gauge for the next time you use it and it should eliminate trial and error set ups. hope this helps. Andy|
|Thread: extraction system|
Oops! Just read the question again. If you are using a planer thicknesser, a bigger bore 100mm etc is best as the airflow is increased so more efficient. A bigger bore is best if the extractor airflow allows it, so i'd look at a 100mm pipework with maybe a reducer to 50mm on a blastgate for the sander router etc, using one motor as recommended by Record for this purpose.
I think the DX4000 is the one with the twin motors?
hope this helps.
|Thread: The latest Good Woodworking (205)|
|Hi Cedric, I touched upon the use of the slot mortice attachment in the machine morticing section, but the problem is, availability in the UK market. While it used to be a feature of the planer block, I can't recall seeing any standalone planer thicknesser currently on the market that uses the system. It is usually available as a separate purchase if you buy a combi or universal machine, but even then, its often a special order. Europe favours the slot morticer, but the Uk is pretty well all standard plunge morticers, so that was why it was touched upon, as the availability is limited in the UK market. Hope this clears it up. cheers, Andy|
|Thread: Why are Bandsaws Left-handed?|
The only right handed bandsaw I can recall is the Inca (PDF of the manual here): http://www.incamachines.com/eng/component/option,com_docman/task,cat_view/gid,4/Itemid,5/
They don't sell in the UK anymore as far as I'm aware though.
For feeding, on wider curved work especially, on a standard bandsaw a righthander would control and tweak the work position with the right hand and also support it while the left hand is mostly for feed pressure and to hold it down to the table. Reversed, the left hand has to guide the curve, so is not the dominant hand. Whether this is the main reasoning behind the design is anybody's guess!
|Thread: The latest Good Woodworking (205)|
Thanks for your kind words, much appreciated!
The idea of working through techniques and using the tools jiga and aids available is something I've wanted to do for a long time, I think it's important to discern the need for some jigs or tools against hand methods.
The morticing feature is one of those - you soon realise that while its nice to be able to hand chop mortices accurately, in the real world, maybe not the most practical!
On the other hand, i'm just finishing a similar styled feature on dovetailing for issue 207, and although there are plenty of jigs ot there that will do a fast and perfect joint, i've dusted off the dovetail saw and hand cut a range of dovetails with walkthrough pictures, and thoroughly enjoyed it.
The difference between the two joints has me firmly in the camp of machines for mortices but the hand cut dovetail can be varied so much more than most machines or jigs offer and has its own beauty.
I think in instance where the joint is 'showcase' the art of the woodworker should be explored, and while jigs are fine for fast joints, the ability to control hand tools and turn out a fine joint is one that as woodworkers, I think we are all hoping to achieve, and practice is definitely the order of the day!
Good Woodworking Magazine
|Thread: Good Woodworking issue 203|
That's fair comment - but I think the idea may be to intrigue a non-forum reader to maybe take a peek and then remain and post. The other side of it is to indicate that although there is obviously woodwork there is also humour, so again, maybe a hook. Goodwood follows similar lines, hopefully offering good woodworking advice when required, but still able to show a little bit of humour or lightheartedness to keep it from being sterile.
I've been a bit snowed under with mag stuff for the last week or so (deadlines!)
Anyway, just read through the postings here, and I think the idea of the small section on the Get Woodworking forum printed in Goodwood is much the same as is being discussed here, with some posters not reading magazines, the same may be said for the magazine readers who don't visit forums.
The idea, I would think, (though don't quote me on it, I don't do the editorial bits!) is to try and get mag readers to become forum active, and although not so likely, the occasional forum user buying the mag(s).
Content for projects, whether aspirational/inspirational or otherwise is always difficult, much the same as other mag content, trying to keep all readers or potential readers happy is always tricky.
Adjusting the balance towards one end alienates the other, and can lose readers, and it's often the case that American mags or furniture and cabinetmaking are discussed as they way to go.
Budgets for American mags are huge by comparison to UK ones, with an average of 100k plus readers and a staff of at least ten or more per mag. Here, both Woodworker and Goodwood run with only two or three full time editorial staff per magazine.
Furniture and cabinet is a very focussed mag, but has nowhere near the readership levels of Woodworker and Goodwood, and to try and go down that route would leave one or both in peril I would imagine, and there is a need for general woodworking that covers or touches more bases, which is where both our mags sit, albeit from different angles and approaches.
I hope by me writing this doesn't upset anyone, it's not my intention, it's just to try and clarify what i believe is the magazines positions. Even so, no doubt the posting have been read and noted at HQ, and i'm always happy to listen help and offer advice whenever I can, so feel free to post here or email me directly. Enail probably better if it's important,as it's all to easy to miss a posting on a busy forum!
Oh yes Olly, I said Darren Lucozade!
Now a quick question for Ben -
why does my home computer (PC) keep making paragraphs when I hit the return instead of simply starting directly below? (like in this posting)
|Thread: The Woodworker subscription chisel sets|
Not sure about the small tool set, but I was playing around with a set of the Faithfull chisels at the Ally Pally show on our stand.
I was surprised how good they are for a budget set. The backs didn't need too much work, and the steel felt hard on the stone and honed up well. Certainly worth having even as a secondary set of bashers to back up your top end bench ones!
The blades actually remind me in look and feel of Bahco blades, and if that's the case, no bad thing!
|Thread: July Edition of "The Woodworker"|
Wheel size is also a factor on the throat capacity.
Allowing for the fact the blade is travelling inside the throat on the upstroke, the bandwheel diameter will affect the overall distance you can push between it and the downstroke side of the blade, so wider wheels give wider throat capacity.
|Thread: Best finish for Ash|
Blimey Derek, that's a new experience for me, actually getting something right!!!
|Morning chaps, I recommended water based lacquer (sold by Chestnut and Behlen amongst others) as it doesn't have a yellow cast as a fluid, unlike oils or polys, so any applied keeps it a pretty pale finish. I made a pine cupboard and sprayed it with waterbased lacquer some years back for the mag and although it has darkened down as the light has acted upon it, it's not the horrible yellow you normally get, it's still retained a natural pine look. Ash is likely to darken much the same over the course of time, but as pointed out by Mike and others, it won't have that initial yellow cast of an oil or oil based finish. As i mentioned in the original advice (I think...) when you apply water based stuff, it looks milky with a slight blue tinge, but dries back perfectly clear, so on pale timbers, I find it tends to retain a natural look. Of course, ideally the best bet is to try it on a scrap piece or an area that won't be seen beforehand, but you don't need me to tell you that! cheers, Andy|
|Thread: Tifflin' & fiddlin' & fettlin'|
looking at the first flattening pic on the smoother, it looks like you have contact points at the toe and heel, plus both sides of the mouth and just starting around the periphery. Now while the purists will say that isn't enough, I'd be happy with that, the start of any cut is bedding on a flat, the area in front of the blade then tracks this as the cutter bites, followed by the flattening behind the mouth. The hollow behind is pretty irelevant as the start of any cut should have pressure on the toe of the plane. As it progresses, the final flat at the heel comes into play, and everything is hunky dory as its bedding on all four areas. As the plane exits the cut, the weight is transfered to the heel, so it's still all aligned through the cut.
The Japanese wooden planes are usually hollowed like this, so why not a steel one? It where you have a twist, hollow or convexity that you have problems. As i said, I try 'em first, then try and see what is wrong after!
Hi Mike (G)
I wouldn't have any problems using yours, or anyone elses plane - I'm a big advocate of trying tools first, then trying to solve problems if they arise. I can never understand why people want to flatten a plane for no reason! Why try and solve a problem if it isn't there? Same as making shavings and taking pictures with micrometers to show how fine they are. I can do it with a bog standard Stanley, with the blade supplied, but if you have to take a bit off at sub thou levels, you'll be there a while! I prefer to do woodwork with my tools, not take pics of shavings... although saying that, I do demo at shows with a couple of planes taking very fine shavings to convince people that technique is the most important thing in sharpening, not to have a range of stones and gadgets.
I use one Trend diamond stone, a piece of leather and honing paste if i want to tweak it a little more, but I usually use it straight off the stone. This is more important to me than any high end engineering. Don't get me wrong, it's really nice to be able to use a top end plane and see how well they really perform, but you can get pretty good results with minimal effort if you want to. As long as the sole is not twisted or bent and the iron beds down well without chattering, you can get decent results.
I used to work with a few old boys who didn't even consider 'fettling and flattening' - their hand and eye skills were more than enough to bring any board into shape, and watching a couple of them shooting edges for rub joints was a joy to behold, and that is equally important. Owning the best tools won't make you any better if you don't know how to drive them!
|Thread: The Safest Saw in the World|
|Hi Baz, If you do that yourself, i think you are fine, but if a company here imports and then sells stuff that doesn't have CE regs, that, i'm pretty sure, is a problem. Olly, the ones i'm referring to are quite well thought of, and are based on the Delta Unisaw in the USA. Most people who buy them want to be 'Norm' as these have the option of a long arbor for dado blades. The saws come from Taiwan as far as i'm aware. I' spoke with a guy I know at HSE regarding the dado/arbor, to try and get a definitive answer, and also asked about the CE regulation. He told me that all saws have to be CE regulated, and that although small tools or stuff that isn't deemed overly dangerous can be self CE regged, saws, and other equally dangerous machines have to be done independently. He said that they would be very interested in looking at companies that sell non compliant tools, but would need an official complaint to do so. He also said although these saws are likely to be well made and do their jobs properly, should an accident occur that needs a HSE investigation, the importer would be liable for a massive fine. I mentioned this on a similar thread over on UKW a year or so back, and one of the mods emailed the company to see if they had any saws that were CE regged and they replied that they were going through the process at the time. Whether they are now, I don't know. I'll not mention the company by name, but they sell saws that sound remarkably like King Arthurs sword...|
to follow on from Ben's post, I'm pretty sure all of the Record fences have the same ability to be pulled back for ripping timber.
I tested the TS200 that Ben has (it is a great saw for the price, if I didn't have my Kity 419, I'd get one)
Just finished writing up a test on the Record TS315 panel saw with scoring facility and this has the same fence design. Record are usually pretty good at getting this sort of thing right.
I saw a prototype of the TS200 about two years back and it took another 18 months before they were happy and it met all the CE regs. It cost Record a huge sum of money to get the saw to the criteria, but they do it for every tool they sell. I've seen the CE documentation on that saw alone and it is about the size of a telephone directory!
There are some saws imported into the uk without the CE certification, and to be honest, I don't know how they can do it, i'm pretty sure its illegal to sell machinery without this certification?
|Thread: Festool owners|
|Forgot to add, the downside is, it nicks your shop vac for the suction source, so if you need it for extraction when routing on the minimach, you need another source or a 'Y' connector and a couple of hoses. Not too sure if having a split connector on the hose would compromise the suction power though... Oh yes, it's great for routing stuff, and also for ripping sheet material. Build one big enough and you can do full sheets easily enough. I've been considering building a suction table into the workshop with a cover over it so I have it as a standard worksurface for general use, and also as a vac surface if needed. One for the to do list! Andy PS. Ben, if you you have access to Good Woodworking archive discs or back issues, I did a build your own minimach using the Umach kit way back in issue 102 if you want to scan it and load it up?|
|Hi Mike, They grip unbelievably well! The idea is to have a flat surface to sit the Minimach device on, so if you bench has a tool well or dog holes, it would need a temporary board on top. MDF is ideal. The Minimach or your own home made one has a rubber gasket on the underside around its outer edge that sucks down to the flat surface via the valve on the end. The top of it has similar gasket, divided into individual cells, each one with a small ball bearing valve. Put any flat stock on a cell, and as long as it covers the gasket for that cell, the ball bearing depresses and allows the air in that cell to be sucked out and held firmly. The more cells it covers, the better, but I've made small plaques and shields and held them easily on a single cell for routing the edges. Sideways pressure such as planing may cause it to move a little on a single cell, but cover a load of them and you should secure it enough to be able to work, but it does need to be flat to seal the cells. The minimach is capable of supporting half a sheet of 19mm ply overhanging its edge, so has plenty of suction, and works off a standard vac or shop vac. I don't think it's compatible with Cyclone types such as Dysons though. Toby the inventor has some clever ideas, where you can make special shaped jigs to lift away from the main surface if you have an odd profile and need to deep rout an edge where it would damage the main surface for example. Simply cut a piece of MDF to the shape you need ensuring it covers the cells, use spare gasket to form a seal on the top surface, drill a hole and place it on top of the main minimach. Once the suction is applied, the minimach sucks to the table, and once the workpiece is placed on the auxiliary jig to form a seal, the air evacuates from the minimach, and the jig, pulling the workpiece down in the process. Simple but brilliant! Why didn't I invent it... Andy|
I've seen a similar vacuum system by Lamello, but for some reason, they don't seem to market it here.
I doubt if I could ever run to the expense of a Festool vac clamp, but i've used the MiniMach from Trend loads of times. Same principle, but without the tilt etc.
When I used to bump into Toby Cardew, the inventor (he lives in Canada now) he always had new ideas about making additional jigs to use with the for odd shape and stuff.
There are also a couple of kits available, UMach and BigMach so you can make your own vac clamps to suit.
|Thread: Chisels V. Health & Safety|
You're lucky to be alive Mike!!!
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