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Member postings for Andy King

Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Triton Woodworking Tools
18/11/2008 10:05:00

Hi Marc,

 I'm not 100 percent sure, but I don't think B&Q are stocking Triton any more, but its definitely the same brand. Pricing should be similar to original B&Q prices as far as I can tell, but I don't think you'll be seeing the 1/2 price sell offs that B&Q were doing a few months back!


Thread: Record Universal
17/11/2008 14:59:00

Hi John,

You have the MiniMax C26 (Pus version as it has the Tersa block), the original Record C26 was a Lurem, now sold by Metabo.
Chalk and cheese is a pretty good comparison of the old Lurem with one motor to the 3 motored MiniMax you've got - its a fantastic piece of kit,  for the money, supeb avalue and excellently specified, I don't think you'll regret buying it, it has none of the foibles of the original version.


The Kity Bestcombi is a great machine, if a little limited in capacities. It's essentially the 419 saw, the 429 Spindle and the 439 planer bolted together.
The spindle is a little close to the edge of the tables so doesn't offer much support on long grain cutting, although the sliding carriage can be used to support the width, but its not ideal.
The saw is still only 8in blade, so limited to about 2inch stock, and like my 419 saw, a tad underpowered for quick ripping as its only 1100 watts.
It's a very well made machine though, and is one of the smallest ones out there if space is tight, plus it splits down into two parts (the planer/thicknesser removes) if you have a single doorway to your workshop.
As it has hardened aluminim tables, it might be a better option over the cast iron models if its going onto a shed loor that might struggle with the weight of cast iron.

hope this helps,

Thread: Quirk bead
13/11/2008 16:59:00
Malc wrote (see)


Yep, thats the one, I wish I knew about it 10 days ago.


Err, you did Malc... I posted this url at the start of the thread, although it didn't appear as a link, saying to look at the corner bead option.

 Still, it looks like a nice job anyway!


PS. this one doesn't appear as a link either! Must be me

31/10/2008 13:18:00

Looking at your sketch again Malc, I think even with a scratch stock you won't get the undercut of the bead, the scratching action won't allow it, you'll end up with a semi circle, although a further profile could be used to introduce the final undercut as it doesn't have to remove too much timber once the bead is established.

A lot of work though!


31/10/2008 10:07:00
Hi Malc, Looking at your sketch, there aren't any router cutters that I have seen that will replicate that mould - it's impossible in a single pass, but there are ones that will do a similar one in two passes, but without the chamfer, you end up with a square quirk shoulder. To get this mould, I think the only way is with a scratch stock and a couple of suitable profiled cutters, one registering from the top edge, the other from the front face. This cutter here from Trend shows the bead a router will cut (look at the corner bead cutter) hope this helps. Andy
30/10/2008 20:07:00

Hi Malc,

 A quirk is simply a step in a moulding.
A simple way to see a quirk is to look at an architrave where is meets the door lining. The step or backset between the edge of the lining and the start of the architrave mould is a quirk line.
On a router cutter, a roundover bit that has been dropped down into the work to form a small rebate as well as the roundover is a quirk. (An ovolo is essentially a roundover with a double quirk)
Others such as ogees etc have quirks as an integral part of their design.

hope this helps.


Thread: Worksharp
27/10/2008 16:16:00

Hi Andy,

 Not sure what you mean by staying flat and true long term, the abrasives are self adhesive and stuck to 10mm thick toughened glass discs so you can have differing grits on each side and another disc loaded similarly (the 3000 version has spare disc plus slit version for gouges etc)
The discs are available separately so if one does become damaged its eay to replace.


27/10/2008 15:55:00
Hi Richard, I looked at the Worksharp3000 in the latest issue of Good Woodworking. Its a nice piece of kit, although using it for turning or carving gouges is down to your own steady hand as they are addressed freehand to the wheel working the tool from underneath the wheel. I found it was a pretty easy operation, you have a wheel that has slits in it that allow you to see through and watch the bevel as the abrasive works, so you can tweak the tool to get the bevel orientated correctly. You do need a little care as you roll it over - its best to roll from the right to left as it can snag on a slit if you try to do it left to right if that makes sense! You can still get a snag if you roll too far, but I found it was more a lack of concentration here. It's not as versatile as a Tormek, but you need a lot of jigs with a Tormek for the consistency it offers. The Worksharp is a fast system, basically a powered version of Scary Sharp, and great for flattening backs on tools if needed as well as sharpening. The abrasive range is also good, you can coarse grind or hone as needed, although the consumables are where you will be spending your money more than with traditional methods. The abrasives can be cleaned up with a rubber cleaning stick (supplied) if needed, but they will obviously lose their bite over a period of time unlike a wet wheel or other grinder/honing stones. hope this helps. Andy
Thread: In this month's Good Woodworking
23/10/2008 12:58:00

Hi Jim,

 the correct email Jon is:
Quite why there an 'H' in there is anyone's guess!

As for the turning, Good Woodworking has always had turning in it, although we don't seem to have the entry level stuff like we used to.
I think with magazines such as ours that are designed for woodworking in general rather than specialising on a specific area, there is likely to be a part where its not going to appeal to everyone.
Turning is a good example as it is often its own subject, and you can make plenty of things without going near any other woodworking, but there are others who may find it useful if  they want to incorporate turning within traditional cabinetry work for instance.

It's always going to be a tricky balance when there are numerous subjects to cover!



15/10/2008 08:57:00

Hi Mike,

Yep, Reggie was in and out of the Gloucester side when JR was on test duty and did well enough, but how do you permanently dispose the then England No1! He was being chased by a few counties at the time, but stayed loyal to them, which probably cost him a bit more fame and maybe fortune.

As for the joint? It's used on boat hatches as it has water integrity from both sides of the joint. A standard dovetail has an open shoulder. You could use a rebate without the splay, but the old shipwright who introduced me to it when I was involved in building a replica ship in Bristol said it was tradition to show the bevelling, so I've done them like it since. I'm unlikely to use it elsewhere, i have to admit!
I watched Rob Cosman demoing at Axminster a few years ago and he runs a micro rebate along one part of the joint as a solid reference for marking out and a clean line, so I suppose that could be an adaptation.


14/10/2008 14:01:00

Hi Mike (G)

This is the joint Olly was on about.
The top pic shows how it should look when you cut through a tail when removing for a lid etc.

(slightly off topic, did you ever play against Richard 'Reggie' Williams who was understudy to Jack Russell? He used to play for our local team when he could - took a few catches and stumped a few off my bowling, which i'm pretty chuffed with! - Great bloke as well!)



Thread: softwood only :-(
14/10/2008 10:32:00

They do indeed Olly, but I was referring to Travis Perkin as a supplier as Zac had posted that he lives near one and they used to stock u/s redwood in the Bath branch, so maybe the Brighton one does as well. Bristol is a bit far from Brighton!



Thread: In this month's Good Woodworking
14/10/2008 10:27:00
OPJ wrote (see)

I hadn't even heard of a double-rebate dovetail joint before.

Ah, well Olly, that's because it's called a double rabbeted dovetail as I said in the feature! Traditional UK boatbuilding terminology over americanism here I believe!



Thread: softwood only :-(
13/10/2008 22:40:00

I tend to think the opposite - I agree pine is cheaper so not so damaging on the pocket when mistakes are made, but as it compresses more readily than common hardwoods such as oak, sapele etc, you can get away with a slightly tight joint that may split in hardwoods.
Working with harder timbers almost forces you to become more accurate from the off, and that's what I tend to recommend.
If I was to go for softwood, I'd recommend good quality redwood, U/S (unsorted) grade for joinery, but again, not all timber yards stock this, the Travis Perkins in Bath used to stock, but not any more, last time I wanted joinery timber from them it was more like floor joists! Hopefully you may be luckier in Brighton!



Thread: searching for a jig
13/10/2008 14:46:00
Hi James, the marker is made by Woodjoy in the USA. It's one I had sent over for review a few years back and i thought it was fantastic (although Pete Martin didn't quite see it the way I did and marked my review score down!) Anyway, you can get it in the UK directly from Classic handtools - here: hope this helps, Andy
Thread: help
02/10/2008 09:17:00

Yep, as Big Al states.
The peripheral speed on a bigger cutter is increased if run at the same speed as a smaller diameter and therefore has to be slowed down to meet the same cutting ratios for safety.
Spindle moulders run on far lower speeds than routers for the same reason, and lathes should be slower on bigger diameter stock accordingly.

As others have mentioned, you should ensure that both cutter and collet extension are seated correctly, and check that the collet is clean (no resin build up etc) and is not deformed or damaged. You can actually overtighten collets and deform them.

Also, some collet extensions do extend the cutter a long way and therefore the cutter has a certain amount of 'whip'. (I think the Trend may be one of these - CMT do a similar one) I prefer the Xtreme Xtension sold by Woodworers Workshop an identical model is sold by Rutlands here:
These extensions also have a fast release cutter system, eliminating the need for spanners, its a matter of a quarter turn of a hex wrench to remove and replace a cutter.

hope this helps.


01/10/2008 20:41:00

Hi David,

 Panel raisers aren't meant to be used at full speed, they are low speed only. Firing them up to full whack makes them very unstable as you have found.
If you look at the Trend website, or in their catalogue they usually have recommended maximum speeds for the bigger cutters. This link: shows a chart with recommended speeds for cutter diameters. (bigger box, bottom left of the chart)

hope this helps,


Thread: Can any one help
23/09/2008 18:21:00
Hi Roger, it might be worth giving Derek Pyatt a call. He is very knowledgeable on old machinery and used to keep some pretty obscure spares for a huge variety of machines, and has great knowledge on most machines, so he may have something that will suit, or be able to recommend a suitable tyre. email: tel: 01902 791656 hope this helps, Andy
Thread: powdered baize
19/09/2008 18:38:00

Hi Derek(s)

You are looking for this stuff, Suede -Tex, sold by Turners Retreat.
Different colours available, so should be one suitable.

Hope this helps,


Thread: Bandsaw set up problems
19/09/2008 17:04:00
Hi Chris, sounds like you either need to track the blade slightly forwards as it shouldn't allow the set of the teeth to address the side bearings under load, or move the thrust bearing closer to the back of the blade. The thrust bearing should be only 1mm or so from the back of the blade when free running. If you need to adjust the tracking,the knob at the back (with the locking turnscrew) needs to be adjusted so that the teeth of the blade move forwards on the wheels, and should be pretty well central or slightly forwards of the wheels tyre. If you back the side bearings well back so the blade has only the thrust bearings up in position, the tension should be around 6-10mm deflection under thumb pressure when pushed from the sides with the guide post right up at its highest position, but this will likely need tweaking to get the cut working well, its simply ballpark. Once it tracks the side guides can be moved into position, and it should be that when the thrust bearing engages, the side bearings should be positioned with the edges of the wheels just behind the tooth gullets. As for scoring the thrust bearing, two things here, one, it may be slightly seized so a bit of WD40 may help, but for me, I have never understood a bearing that spins having something running across its face, and in doing so, making it pretty difficult for it to do so! Some bandsaws have swung the thrust bearing through 90 degrees so the blade actually touches the edge and spins it as its designed to do. Makes far more sense to me! As for the noise, could be a combination of the guides being set wrong and also the tension. I looked at this saw a couple of issues back and it worked really well, with none of the problems you have mentioned. Hope this helps. Andy
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