Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|I've just been shopping in the local Iceland.|
Got to the till and paid and the checkout girl asked if I wanted any ash back!
|Thread: the 'Accurate Guide'|
Welcome to the forum!
Roger Phebey was bringing these in a few years back but i'm not sure if he's still doing them.
Might be worth giving him a call to see - his website is www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk and shows the accurate guide in the menu, but the link doesn't seem to work.
tel: 0845 165 9244
hope this helps
|Thread: Alexandra Palace Show|
As any reader will testify Marc, I'm obviously camera shy!
I mean, how many times do you see my picture in Good Woodworking...
|Thread: no magazine|
Hopefully someone from HQ has picked up on this and sorted it.
Richard, really sorry that you've had no reply to your correspondence. Is there anything I can help with, or be able to pass on to anyone to sort?
You can PM or email me if it will be easier, or I'm at Ally Pally if you are going and want to have a chat then?
|Thread: Ollys Table|
Nice table Olly!
It has an 'Ercol' style about it, but your mum buying chairs? Where's your sense of adventure!
|Thread: UPS Virus|
Ah if only this thread was up a week earlier!
My work laptop has been at the repair place so i've had to access via a web server for email etc on my home PC.
Included amongst them was the UPS one, and I get a lot of stuff sent to me, including deleiveries by them. Normally a card is left if i'm not around, but I have had an email occasionally to say there's import duty to pay etc, so I opened it...
Completely spannered my home PC in a matter of seconds!
I actually ran my virus checker before i opened it (I use the AVGFree one and its usually brilliant) but this time it said it was safe.
It then picked it up as a threat as soon as I opened it with all sorts of problems as it was writing itself to the registry etc.
Running a scan immedietly, AVG picked up the problems, quarantined and deleted them and I hoped dealt with them, but on reboot, it all kicked off again, so I was back to square one.
Luckily I managed to salvage a lot of the stuff I had been working on for the mag as I had backed it up to a memory stick a day or so before, but I did lose some stuff so I've had to do it all again, which is frustrating to say the least!
Not being the most computer literate when it comes to viruses and dealing with them, rather than try and get it sorted with a virus checker, I gave up, and reformatted the drive and did a fresh install.
I'm VERY careful now as to what I open!
A week later, all seems good, and a bonus, just checked my bank account to see if they managed to gain access and it looks like they felt sorry for me and saw I had no money and put 500 quid in!
|Thread: Shark brand flush cutting saw|
I'd give Rutlands a try - they stock the Shark Brand saws, so maybe they have the spare blades as well. The saws show on the website, but not the spares, but worth a call I would have thought?
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/ Tel: 01629 815518
hope this helps,
|Thread: Kity 613 bandsaw spares|
Since Kity went under in Europe, Scheppach took on the ownership, with NMA the suppliers of Kity in the UK.
The range seems to be smaller than it was and at the shows where they exhibit, i don't recall any Kity bandsaws being there so you may strguggle for the part you need.
It's always worth trying them as your first port of call to see if they can track it down though.
Hope this helps,
Tel: 01484 400 488
Edited By sparky on 10/12/2009 10:03:33
|Thread: Tablesaws and Bandsaws|
That's a beast of a saw Jan!
I agree with you and Baz about the tablesaw though, I'm an old fashioned tablesaw man, so its my main stock converter, but a bandsaw is useful for deep ripping when needed if you don't have the capacity. (you must have a saw with an 18in plus blade!)
Table saws are so good nowadays you can get a far superior and accurate cut from them, with little finishing or planing needed in a lot of instances.
I do like the bandsaw for ripping tenon cheeks and suchlike though.
Edited By Andy King on 27/11/2009 22:50:10
Edited By Andy King on 27/11/2009 22:51:58
Good reasoning from a fellow/rival mag worker Baz!
He must have more space than me (and money!)
I think I need to save up and get another tablesaw now, I keep a reasonably fine blade in my Kity 419 so I'm now on the lookout for a bigger saw for the rip blade!
I think i'll have to change the way I look at the machines i test from now on...
|Thread: Soss Hinges|
I used to use Soss hinges in my boat building days for the cherry furniture on flybridge cruisers.
What i used to do was to have a straight cutter for the router that matched the width of the hinge. This gives a perfect radius match for the hinge ends as well as the width, and then use a guide bush and a home made template - basically a slot in the piece of MDF with a deep batten as a fence to centre it on the work and allow you to clamp it to the work.
The slot was the same width as the guide bush, it just needs to be long enough to allow for the difference between the guide bush and the cutter.
I've just found an image and it seems the No 212 hinges are 3/4in wide and 3 3/4in long, so if you use a 1in guide bush for example, you have a 3/4in cutter that leaves 1/8in offset between the guidebush and the cutter, so the slot needs to be 1in x 3 7/8in (i think that's right!)
The slot should now be good for the face of the hinge (use the turret on the router to set the depth)
Swap the cutter to a narrower one to allow for the hinge mechanism and use the same guidebush setup to plunge the remainder. I used to work from centrelines marked on the jig and where the hinge was going to get it spot on.
The length of the deeper recess for the hinge mechanism I simply marked on with a pencil because (if i recall correctly) if the router runs full length of the slot with the narrower cutter it doesn't leave enough meat for the screws.
Hope this helps, but as mentioned, have a practice first!
Edited By Andy King on 27/11/2009 21:34:15
|Thread: Saw vice|
Yep, i've made a few that way as well, it was the way I was shown either at college or on of the old guys on site. The main problem, even when drilling a relief hole was that over the course of time, the wedging action would eventually start to split the uprights. Setting a saw to the right height for filing was maybe a tad more tricky as well.
This one eliminates any chance of splitting, plus you simply slacken the wingnuts and the saw slips in easily and can be positioned for height very easily.
|well there was a scan of some words as well a minute ago! Don't know what happened there! second time lucky...|
Edited By Andy King on 18/11/2009 20:10:27
OK Richard, hopefully these should be clickable to show full size if needed. (I think the on line archive is only back to when Good Woodworking was bought from Future publishing. There were no online archives made in the Future days)
Gareth, you are right, the shoulder should slope, it was back in the days of John Lander our illustrator at Future Publishing and he didn't follow my initial sketch correctly.
OK, just checked and the sharpening horse in the pic I made in issue 159. I can scan it and post up if you need it, but i'll be away at the Harrogate show from wednesday evening.
if you mean the vice in the picture I did do it as a small project in the magazine - i'm away from my work computer at the moment so i'll check it out and let you know which issue asap.
Other than that, I don't recall a saw vice that fits in a bench vice. Disston used to make one, and these pop up occasionally on Ebay, but other than that, nothing rings a bell.
|Thread: Get Woodworking Live meet-up|
The show will have the stand attended on all three days, but unfortunately I have a prior engagement on the sunday that I can't get out of, otherwise I would have been there for the whole show.
Apart from our own show at Ally Pally, this is the first one we've done with a demonstration stand (me!) that i'm aware of, but we are looking to be more pro active in that area up and down the country in the next year, so you may all be sick of the sight of me after a few shows!
We are looking into the exhibition circuit to see what ones are viable for us to do, so hopefully we can be out and about saying hello to everyone once we have a list of what we can fit in around our own schedules and deadlines.
Hope this helps,
|Thread: Furniture Grade Pine|
Sorry for not replying to this before everyone, I've not been about for a while.
Anyway, to answer your question Alan, if it's redwood for joinery, then U/S timber or unsorted as you have said, is the best.
Oddly, it is actuially sorted though, usually a simple grading by eye to check for knots, splits etc at the bulk sawn stage (225x50 & 225 x 75mm for example)
Next down from that, and the stuff that moulded timber, architraves, dado's skirtings etc is 5ths.
That's also the stuff you see as flat boards at timber merchants as PAR or PSE stock.
Those two types are the only ones i'd consider as suitable for decent furniture making from scratch.
Unsorted should be available from a decent timber yard, but you won't find it at the sheds (B&Q etc)
However, if you go to a B&Q warehouse, they usually have a good range of random length PSE in 5ths, and sort though it and you can get some decent timber.
Steer clear of the pre packed banded timber - the stuff sold in 1.8m 2.1m 2.4m etc, as that is normally white wood and no good for furniture work. Usually once the bands are cut the timber bends and twists all over the place!
Big Al is sort of right with the pricing of timber, although it is changing, depending on where you go.
Hardwoods are usually sold by the cubit foot, but some merchants are now reverting to running lengths, and altering the cost according to the thickness of the board.
General redwood/softwood has been sold by the running length based on width/thickness for years, but you do find that the timber yards that stock hardwoods and some other softwoods such as Douglas Fir will often price that by the cube as well.
Finding a stockist of U/S softwood is becoming more difficult (at least, it is around Bristol) as there aren't so many yards, and the mass produced furniture imports, cheap flat pack furniture plus uPVC double glazing have seen off a lot of need for decent joinery pine.
If you look in Yellow Pages you should be able to find a local timber yard that stock it or should be able to get some or advise where you can go to get some.
hope this helps.
|Thread: Plane sizes|
|Apologies! The number 3 is 1 3/4in iron width not 2in. I should have known that, i was using it the other day...|
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