Here is a list of all the postings Andy King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Andy King's dovetails!|
Hi Neil, great to hear from you!
I'll certainly look n to see you next time i'm down in Weston - bumped into Mark Rolt the other day as well. He tells me the Redcliffe yard where we built the Matthew is to be redeveloped so he's relocating to another place, I think he said down by the Cottage pub on Cumberland road.
|Thread: Kity 613 bandsaw|
yes indeed, that was me - haven't seen Les in a while so it was good to get a brief catch up with him!
The best I can track down is here: **LINK**
That has a number of scans of Kity stuff, with the 613 manual included if you scroll to the bottom of that section.
They are zipped so you'll have to download and extract them - however, they are not very high resolution so the actual words can be tricky to make out if you magnify too highly, and the illustrations get very pixelised as well, but it may be of some use.
hope it helps.
|Thread: What is this tool|
Hi biz howard, welcome to the forum!
Derek is spot on, it's a swan neck mortice chisel for removing the waste on a lock.
The old horizontal door locks where the keyhole sat in front of the spindle bar rather than below it as it does on a standard sash lock, were designed to sit in the centre door rail without drilling out the tenons and to also put the door knob well back from the frame edge so you didn't bang your knuckles, but being that much deeper needed a chisel to get right at the back.
The thick rounded shoulder allowed the chisel to roll and pare the waste away.
Cant' quite see from your image, but the flared neck looks like it was a socket handle?
hope this helps,
|Thread: Part Identification|
As brian has said, a dowel screw is what you are looking for. Screwfix have them in different diameters - 8mm here: http://www.screwfix.com/p/machine-thread-to-wood-thread-dowel-screws-m8-x-75mm-pack-of-10/11850
|Thread: Axminster tools - apalling build quality!|
... at 2000watt, but it doesn’t seem to have any detrimental affect to the machine itself, coping well enough with wider stock fed through it.
The feed speed is fast at 8 metres per minute although at 4000rpm block speed this equates to 12000 cuts over that distance, equal to 1.5 cuts per millimetre, pretty average in this respect so the finish isn’t the premium you may be expecting, but certainly very good nonetheless.
A basic setting jig is supplied for setting the knifes.
Where combi’s often share fences, this one has a separate one for the planer, and something for other manufacturers to take note of, its cast iron, so its rigid and solid throughout. The adjusters are fabricated steel, linked to a dovetail slider so everything stays put once set, and that for me is a huge attribute over some of the aluminium ones out there.
Planing is where you need the accuracy and consistency and why manufacturers cut corners here is beyond me.
There can be issues with flatness on cast iron, but I’d still much prefer the rigidity it offers, and if you do have problems, a timber fence could easily be fitted and packed to suit should you have one that moves over time.
Where I did find it a faff however is the need to fix the fence clamping plate to the table each time. A hex wrench is supplied, but having to take it on and off each time for the sawing and spindle functions for me warrants at least Bristol levers for clamping, but it would likely need a redesign to allow the fence to tilt when pushed right back.
Shifting to thicknessing mode, you have to swing the beds away. These are gull wing types so you get good access into the infeed and outfeed areas, but they tilt outboard so you have to walk around them. Not a massive problem as the beds are only 1050mm long when in surface mode, but I like the easier access of an inboard tilt.
The thickness table sits on a big beefy centre column with an additional support in front of it, so it stays very stable and adjusts smoothly throughout its travel, with a maximum of 250x180mm capacity through it.
While the Axminster has some issues on quality in the odd area and the need to fit a bracket each time for the surfacer, it has an amazing specification for the price, beyond anything else at this level.
The saw is a little growly sounding, and a little rough feeling through the cut, but a good blade will certainly help reduce noise and lift the performance here.
There is always the fear of the internal workings and the durability of it on budget gear, and the end user needs to address some of these concerns by assessing their own requirements.
I doubt a universal at this price would last long used for hours on end on a daily basis in a busy trade shop, but for the keen amateur or one man band tradesman doing smaller batches of work, it’s undoubtedly a well specified machine.
If you have a floor that can take the 370kilo weight and also a 16amp power supply, the positives of this machine outweigh the negatives.
Hi g d,
Yes, there are poor areas of the machine, many of which I pointed out in my initial writing up of the review.
On your machine you seem to have more than I had picked up on, and that can be the problem with Far eastern machines. I often comment on the consistency of quality control from such areas, and it makes it difficult when the model I look at seems pretty good when another can be poor.
I did comment in my review that the model I looked at had been the one sent to Axminster for evaluation and that a I had hoped a couple of problems would be ironed out before they actually sold it, but it may be that it hasn't been the case, and the target budget may be responsible for this, but only Axminster can answer that.
I don't have the printed version of my review to hand so i'm not sure was actually edited out until I find the correct issue (it was a couple of years back at least I think) but I do keep all of my original unedited reviews for reference, and if any one is interested in reading my initial thoughts, I've pasted it below.
Well, good things so say come in threes, so if you take a combination machine at base level, its three workshop machines, although often referred to as a five function machine (six if you opt for a morticer)
So on the premise that three is good, this one has a three knife planer block and three speed spindle, and operates on three separate motors so if it came in at three grand for what are certainly desirable attributes it would have to be a bonus! Well, it gets better, this one is being sold for less than £2000, and you get a lot of machine for that amount of money, so let’s look a little closer.
First off, the Far East market has gone in for cast iron in a big way, so this one meets that same specification, and the finish on all the cast work is excellent, but as with most Chinese stuff, the quality of the adjusters and knobs is hit and miss with some very good, others pretty poor, even though they all do the job as intended.
If the initial specification has you intrigued, then knowing that the machine also has a scoring blade for the saw function really does put it in a good position.The main blade is 250mm with an 80mm scoring blade, giving a ripping depth of 65mm at 90 degrees. On some saws you can remove the scorer for a bigger diameter main saw blade. Not so here, but the scorer drops below the table when not needed, and is fully adjustable to tweak to the left or right as needed.You do need to wind it fully down if you are ripping bevels as it will project through otherwise, even if it sits below on a 90 degree setting.The maximum ripping width is 460mm, which while not the best for economical sheet conversion, is decent enough.
The fence is made just for the saw, the planer has a separate fence which is a bonus, and it’s a solid enough box extrusion construction with a sliding auxiliary fence for ripping work. There is slight flexing at its full extent, often the case with saws that have long fences held only at the front rail. There is a fine adjuster on the fence and here is a definite case of budget over quality, its rudimentary and pretty flaky, almost like the apprentice made it without supervision!
The aluminium crosscut carriage is utilised by both the saw and the spindle, with the carriage itself sitting directly on board, tight to the blade, seen as a better feature for accuracy over the off board types.
The fabricated steel table fits to the carriage and cantilevers the weight back to a lower running rail with a cast bracket so you don’t have a large outrigger to contend with.
The carriage is fully adjustable for travel and height and position dependent on spindle or saw use, with 965mm of travel.
Adjustments for blade height and tilt are independent, each adjuster is very fluid, with the wheel handles hinged to sit flat when not being used so you won’t catch yourself on them as you work, a simple addition often found on higher end machines so very welcome on a budget one.
With the carriage locked, the spindle has plenty of table in front of the block for general long grain moulding applications pushing the work through manually, while using the carriage for end grain work.
The three speeds are belt adjusted using a belt swap method through the microswitched door. You need the supplied box type spanner to slacken the motor so the belt can be moved, but it’s a simple enough operation.
Block swaps requires both spanner and hex wrench, again, easy enough. The tapped spindle should allow the use of suitable blocks for flush cut tenon type work.
While the hood is solid enough, made from cast alloy, the hold downs are hinged to the back of the hood so are a touch springy until the work feeds in which in itself is not too much of a concern, but I’d have liked a bit more solidity here, even guarded, a spindle is still pretty hairy on big cuts.
The plastic hood cover is certainly cheap, it looks like it was made from an old discarded carton of some sort. It does the job intended however, so you have to accept such corner cutting at the expense of better specifications.
That said, the adjustable outfeed on the hood is very stiff, although in fairness, this machine was the evaluation machine sent over, so any niggles such as this should hopefully be addressed.
There are alloy facings on the fence, although I’m of the old school and prefer wooden facings for false fences to be tacked to. No reason why you can’t adapt to suit if you fall into this camp though.
With both the saw and spindle sharing identically sized motors at 2200watts, I was surprised that the planer is shy of this
|Thread: Axminster Talking Tools Event|
|Just got back from this and it was well worth it! |
Some great new stuff in the pipeline from Veritas, and a hand tool lovers idea of heaven!
Some good demo's as well, and if you get the chance and haven't seen the Japanese guy cutting joints, worth it for that alone!
A few pics below...
These are prototypes, the real thing follows!
The handles remove or adjust to suit the user!
The Japanese guy - immense talent!
Stunning boxes by Robert Ingham below
|Thread: Ally Pally 2011|
Sorry, i'm a bit late coming in to the thread, i've been trying that new 'Regaine' shampoo on my arms to try and get the hair to grow back after the sharpening demo's! (My head is well past redemption with such stuff!)
It was great to meet a few faces from here, and nice to read comments that the show was pretty well recieved.
There's a huge amount of effort put in behind the scenes, and Clare (Hiscock) has been brilliant in organising the show so its great that her hard work has been appreciated.
Hope to see you all next year!
|Thread: Get Woodworking Live 2011|
Pester away! It'll be good to meet up with a few forum members!
|Thread: Forstner bits|
Another one to consider are Famag bits.
Matthew Platt at Workshop Heaven who is a member here sells them and they are excellent bits.
This link...►► FAMAG 1622 Series Bormax Forstner Bits ◄◄ takes you to the Famag standard forstner bit page on his website.
There's a good deal on a five piece set at the moment.
hope this helps.
Edited By sparky on 15/02/2011 12:49:05
|Thread: Coffee Grinder|
here are a couple: http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdSrch.cgi?mode=user&transid=&search_text=coffe+grinder
hope this helps.
|Thread: Magazine subscription|
That sounds familiar - I still work in whatever one actually hits easiest! I use metric, imperial or a combination of both when I measure... Never cenimetres though.
Quite why schools insist on centimetres when in industry etc the millimetre is the accepted scale is an oddity i've never understood.
I was at the start of metric when I was at school and they introduced us to cm's, yet as soon as i got to college it was dismissed as unneccessary, only millimetres and metres, inevitably millimetres though, no matter what the size.
That said, I vividly remember phoning a local timber yard to ask the price of PAR 4x2 and was told 'we don't do 4x2 now sir, we're metric.' OK, how much is your 100x50 then?' I asked...
he replied '25pence a foot sir'
we do work in metric predominantly, but we usually bracket an imperial one alongside where possible as we have overseas sales in the US etc, or, in the case of stuff that I review such as Veritas for example, where it's made in Canada and they use imperial as their base measurement, i'll usually default to that measurement, and then we bracket in metric.
In the case of projects we use metric as standard, although i'm guilty of still referring to '4x2' 2x2' (or Frank Sinatra wood...) etc
I agree that old stones are good enough,I used a Nortn India for years.
\\\\\\for me though, bearing in mind that my job now means I look at all types, the introduction of dismond stones were a bit of a revolution for me.
I prefer the ease of use that they give,no need for oil or special fluids - you can buy some if you wish, but we've all got the ability to spit, and that's got me by on many an occasion!
The polkadot DMT's are good, but for narrower blades i find they can dig in. (This can depends on how you hone)
I've used a Trend double sided stone for at least seven years and its still as good as it was then, I can get an edge in seconds,and as good as those of other types.
Of course, thy aren't cheap!
The one area where an old stone can cause problems is flattening the backs of tools.
As they start to wear hollow, the tools take that profile,so can introduce a slight lump in the backs.
Not too problematic if you stick with the same old stone, but change to a new flat stone and you have to then polish that lump back out to get an edge.
It's one of the pifalls of buying old tools as they will invariably been honed on worn stones and you stick them on your ownstone that isn't the same.
I've used loads of stones since the Trend, but the continuous diamonds, plus the fact its never let me down and I can get an edge equal to that of others who advocate many different grits in a fraction of the time means its still my one and only.
I suppose for me its the modern day equivelant of the Norton India!
I agree that a piece of leather and honing paste are wellworth it as well.
As for the cheap diamond stones? I have tried a couple,and while they cut quickly when new, i've fond they strip easily, and can suffer from a lack of flattness.
As with everything, you get what you pay for, but have to consider your needs, uses and budget.
hope this helps!
|Thread: Urea/formaldehyde resin|
you need to be looking for Recorcinol resin adhesive. It's a resin base with powder hardener/catalyst, no water involved.
It's used extensively in marine applications, so a local chandlery should stock it.
If not it's available online.
Some info here on one brand: http://www.wessex-resins.com/Wessex_Resins_Products/pdf/RESORCINOL%20RESIN%20RS12A-RXS22A.pdf
hope this helps.
I remember a bloke who used to do similar at shows, but would make two identical Elvis's at a time.
Apparently it was one for the money, two for the show!
Is that my coat over there?
|Thread: Was it better value?|
I don't know about the 'better value' theory, but I do know that the 13 issue situation isn't a Good Woodworking ploy, but was introduced by the original owners of Good Woodworking, Future Publishing.
They first initiated it with a couple of their computing titles as I recall, and it was successful and so the rest of the Future Publishing magazines were told to do the same.
That was just before I joined the magazine, so around 11 years ago.
I know at that time the staff on all the mags were none to pleased as they had to lose the days from the normal schedule to cover the additional magazine, and with no extra salary to do so.
The knock on effect at that time, and still in place today, is that rival publishers did the same thing to compete, so The Woodworker, at the time a rival magazine, went up to 13 issues (and is still at 13) If you look at other popular titles available today from many publishers, you'll find the 13 issue format while some stick to 12. (During my time with Future, when they had made some poor decisions in magazine strategy after launching on the stock market and had nearly gone bust, laying off hundreds of staff, the then MD had the bright idea of making some of the mags put out 14 issues per year to boost the coffers, same deal, you do it, no extra salary - of course, they did it, as their jobs were on the line, but it came close to mutiny!)
As Darren points out, it's a hard task to put out a magazine, especially when you have small number of people working on them - that four week cycle relates to 19 working days per issue.
It may be that budgets were different as were staff numbers in 1978 so the perception that value for money was better - I don't know.
How about the overall look of them though?
Back then they were printed in black and white predominantly - Initial Good Woodworking mags were a mixture of colour and B&W, with the colour pages denting the budget in a big way, and that was started in 1992.
But the 13 issue thing isn't new - its been around a decade or more, and I blame Future Publishing - I'd love to do 12 issues a year and take some of the pressure off, and I expect Darren will tell you the same!
Edited By Andy King on 11/09/2010 14:50:38
Edited By Andy King on 11/09/2010 14:52:46
|Thread: how to loose your fingers|
I can see where you are coming from with regards to safety.
I actually set the shot up for the picture as I wanted to try and show the saw making some dust to show the efficiency of the dust collector and didn't even spot my hand wasn't on the side handle when I captioned it and loaded it on our server - the joys of self timers on cameras, but not an excuse.
My actual test cuts were done with both hands on the saw, the tile held by me kneeling on the work, and it was wide enough to keep me in control. Any narrower stuff and I wouldn't have entertained it.
I have to say that the saw, with its low cutting RPM, plus being fitted with a diamond blade and ultra dry stone, the chances of binding are very minimal, and the cut is slower than timber, so the feedback on what is happening when cutting is easier to suss out.
Dustwise, the cuts are outside, and with the saw having a built in dust collector, I wanted to see how efficient by looking how much dust was escaping - I commented on this and how little it was in comparison to the clouds released by an angle grinder. The dust never got into the position around my head for goggles or mask, and there were no loose chips flying either.
An angle grinder would be a completely different story!
Although the picture doesn't show it, the design of the saw sits the user behind, rather than over it in most instances usless you choose to work directly over it.
Footwear? Guilty as charged your honour!
Hardhat? Again, guilty, but I was at home not on a building site, so hopefully I'll be forgiven for that one?
Now the baked bean comment...
Back when I was building my extension, I re-tiled my house at the same time, and whilst re-bedding the ridge, my wife and eldest daughter Charlotte were in the front garden talking to a friend.
As it was a glorious summer, my head was very brown and as I got up to the ridge and my head appeared over the top, Charlotte looked up and said 'Ooh look, a giant Malteser!'
Anyway, apologies all, I'll be more diligent from now on!
|Thread: Joint Genie|
Yes, when you first see the Joint Genie it can be seen as a bit expensive, but of all the jigs i've ever looked at, it's the only one that can do every application from the one jig.
In normal circumstances you find that one jig will specilise in mitre joints, others for butts etc, but the Joint Genie does the lot, including unlimited runs of dowels for long edge jointing such as tabletops, so from that perspective, if you need all the options, a set of specialised jigs may not be that far away from the Joint Genie costwise.
It's also a very simple system to use, and can be used for other applications aside from just dowel joints.
Every time I bump into the Joint Genie guys at shows they always seem to have a new application for it!
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