Here is a list of all the postings Charlie Hill has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Jet JTS 250 Supersaw - Modification help please|
I bought this a couple of years ago. It is a good machine but I am unhappy with two aspects which I would like to modify if someone can help me please.
Firstly the mitre gauge that attaches to the sliding table is slow to take on / off and very fiddly to get accurate. I have built a cross cut sled, but don't like it because (1) it won't work with the crown guard in place so risky (2) it takes up too much space when off (3) only works for 90 degrees! unless you make more for different angles (4) dust flies everywhere. So I would like to be able to cross cut & mitre very accurately with very little set up each time and with crown guard in place & good dust extraction.
Secondly the dust collection is poor, possibly because the "cabinet" is a large space with the motor etc only taking up a small part of the area. Also some of the extractor airflow is directed to the crown guard. So this needs improvement.
Has anybody successfully overcome these difficulties please?
|Thread: Mortice & Tenon Jigs head to head test|
I did not think the biscuit joints were strong enough to replace a mortice and tenon?
Thanks Keith, that is very helpful. Looks like I need to start saving for a Domino!
As mentioned it will be furniture - tables, wardrobes, tv units etc.
I do have two routers - Trend T11 mounted in a table and a bit fiddly to remove it from the table - Elu MOF 96 E which I use for hand held work.
Is the Domino joint i.e. a loose tenon joint weaker than a mortice & tenon joint? With the strength of glues today I had thought there would not have been any difference in the strength?
Al, I don't think I will be joinery based, more furniture - tables, wardrobes, tv units etc etc.
I did have a woodrat but sold it as I could not get my head around working it!!!
Thanks Big Al.
I don't have the space or funds for a morticer hence my interest in the 3 tools in my original post.
Of the 3, and I realise you have not used the Leigh, which do you think will be best for accuracy, speed of operation, range of joints and angles and joint strength?
Has any of the magazines ever done a head to head test of Trend Mortice & Tenon Jig, Leigh Super FMT Mortice & Tenon Jig and Festol Domino DF500?
|Thread: JET Table Saw JTS-250(S) making a sled for this, help please|
I have a JET Table Saw JTS-250(S) (quite and old model with the sliding table) and want to make a cross cut & mitre sled for it. The sled will be similar to **LINK**
If you are familiar with this saw there are two features which impact on making a sled (1) there is only one mitre slot to the right of the blade (2) The instructions for mounting the sliding table require this table to be 0.4mm higher than the main table.
I have tried to get the two tables level with each other but have failed. The sliding table just does not want to lower level with the main table .... if one end goes level then the other moves out of level!!
So I wonder has anyone else made a cross cut sled for this saw and how did they overcome this problem?
Edited By Danny Mod on 03/08/2012 09:29:12
|Thread: Kity 613 Bandsaw problems|
I don't think (but could be wrong) the threads are stripped as when you tighten the tension adjuster it moves the bar down. When you loosen the tension adjuster the bar does not move back up, if that makes sense.
|Thread: All in a days work|
Now that you have explained it Mailee that is a great solution. Thanks to you and Dr Bob for sharing. Just like Alexander say "simples"!!
Could you please explain how your Shaker cutting set up works and what cutters you are using?
In the assembly photo there does not appear to be any panels ...... was this a dry assembly prior to sizing & fitting the panels please?
|Thread: Kity 613 Bandsaw problems|
The tracking adjuster on my saw has "frozen" i.e. you can tighten it but when you loosen it, it remains in the same place! See photo below:
How can I fix this please?
|Thread: Good timber merchants|
You could try Beach Brothers in Exeter. I sometimes pick up some wood from their offcuts section.
I have not used any of the following, but you could try them if you like: South Devon Hardwoods & New World Timber (not sure if the latter are trade only?
There is also Simons Woodwork (I think) on ebay who are based in South Molton.
Hope this helps and good luck.
|Thread: Letter Box|
Tanks for that.
I think that most of it is coming via the sides and front.
Maybe I should rout out a gully on all four sides?
Well I built the letter box last year.
Sadly it is n't waterproof so I get soggy newspapers & post when it rains heavily!!!
I tried adding the oak strips after I realised it let in the wet, but this made little difference.
Does anybody have any idea why it is leaking? I wonder if the angle of the roof is too shallow?
You can see a photo of the letter box in my albums.
I hope somebody can help please.
|Thread: Record Blue Paint|
Hi Julian & Simon
Thanks for the suggestion. Do you think they will be able to supply an aerosol tin?
Does anyone know where I could get paint to match the original colour blue for my Record 52E Vise please?
If possible in aerosol form.
Hope someone can help.
|Thread: Woodwork Course|
For some time I have struggled using my planes and chisels and
For two days in his Somerset workshop he took me through the
Tom trained at Parnham under the tutelage of Robert Ingram
Not only is he very skilled but he has an excellent manner
I can fully recommend training with Tom.
|Thread: Letter Box|
Many thanks for that.
When you made your boxes did you butt joint them using the Titebond exterior please?
I want to make a letter box from some 150mm x 22mm treated sawn timber. It will be big enough to take the newspapers as well as the letters, and will need to be weather proof as we occassionally get some rain down here in the South West!
I am wondering how best to joint the boards as they need to be wider than 150mm and also how best to joint it all together. Initially I was thinking about biscuit joints using Titebond exterior glue. My concern is that the exposure to the weather will cause the timber to expand / contract quite a lot.
As this is not intended to be a work of art I want to use a fairly simple solution, so wonder if you clever guys have any suggestions please?
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