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Member postings for Bernard Doughty

Here is a list of all the postings Bernard Doughty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Router lift
16/09/2010 13:50:29
Hello Brian,
 
I thought you might be interested in viewing the following: It is the new router lift by Woodpecker that is operated by a side handle. www.woodpeck.com/sidewinder.html
 
Cheers Bernard. 
Thread: Advise needed.
29/08/2010 13:49:45
Hi James,
 
These seem to be very serious pieces of kit you are looking at. Well above my needs but I just Googled them and the biggest difference I could see was their respective weights. The Record weighs three times more than the Scheppach. Is this a good thing, I'm not too sure but it should cut down on vibration. Neither of the two saws seem to comfortably deal with cutting full 4x8 sheets without assistance. I see that with the Scheppach you can keep using the 12" blade with the scoring unit at the same time, whereas with the Record you need to change down to a 10" inch blade. Finally, it seem that the Scheppach is three phase powered and the Record only two.
 
One thing mystifies me somewhat,  and that is the prices you quoted. Looking through various web sites, the price for the Scheppach is only around the £2,600, which is a lot better than the 3,600€ you quoted. Maybe I'm wrong there. 
 
One other thing you ought to pay attention to is after sales assistance. That is important.
 
Anyway, good luck and good hunting. Mind those fingers...
 
Bernard. 
 
Thread: Router lift
26/08/2010 22:56:03
Hi Baz,
 
Regarding what you were saying about the possibility of the router lift moving up or down a bit due to the vibrations under power, well I called Axminster and they said they had not had any complaints. 
 
Looking at the lift mechanism of four revolving threaded corner posts, it looks firm and sturdy but there does not seem to be a locking device. Whether one is needed I'm sorry I don't know. It would be interesting to hear from somebody who has one and to hear of their findings. The lift mechanism on my Ely planer thicknesser is very similar in design but is activated by a crank that turnes two gears set at 90º to each other. It does not move under power.
 
Looking over on some US forums, I have seen that quite a few woodworkers have either bought router risers or have updated to them. I wonder if that means that they use the router more than us, or have more models on the market from to chose from,  are more affluent. or it is simply more the "norm" to have one. What do you guys think? Do you think having a router lift would be a worthy addition to your workshop?
 
Bernard. 
24/08/2010 20:10:51
Many thanks guys for your comments. I know it seems quite an expensive piece of kit but taking into account that in order to use my cupboard door making cutters, I will need to at least buy a new router base with a larger hole than I own at present, and not to mention the need that I will have to make myself my own router table to house it, I think with everything taken into consideration, and especially after what  Richard has said, the router elevator looks like it will be a good buy and will certainly enhance the ease of working with my proposed new router table. 
 
Thank you all for your combined help and views and I will let you know how my new table turns out.
 
Cheers, Bernard.- 
22/08/2010 10:29:36
Does anybody have any experience of this Axminster router elevator http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-the-axminster-router-elevator-prod808144/, or any other type of router lift? I am intending up-grading my router table and am looking towards one of these.
 
Many thanks, Bernard. 
Thread: Help with info about old Sheppach combi
13/04/2010 07:53:04
Thanks for the info Graham, you are right about their poor web site.
I returned another day to check out the old machines and saw they were from the mid eighties. There was a HM2 combi and also a spindle molder with a power  feeder, that was really robust and that I would have liked. But, to my disappointment, I found out that they were all three phase motors rated at 400V. Well better luck next time.
 
Cheers, Bernard. 
03/04/2010 10:33:43
Last week, I stumbled upon a rusting Sheppach "combi" machine at the back of a wood suppliers warehouse, which was a planer- thicknesser coupled to a bandsaw, that hang on the side and which used the planer's motor to drive it. There could have been a mortice attachment too but didn't have time to look.  
 
I remember years ago seeing a brochure  about these machines, but try as I might searching the internet, I have not been able to come up with anything about them.
 
Does anybody out there know the machine, it's model number or where I could find a link to it? I have wondered about buying it, with the view to doing it up, but would first like to find out something about it.
 
Thanks guys, Bernard. 
Thread: DeWalt compound mitre saws
31/05/2009 08:36:35
Morning John,

I just had this sent to me, Dewalt Super Deals From Lawson HIS. You should take a look: >> lawson-his <<

Regards Bernard. 

Edited By sparky on 31/05/2009 09:18:52

24/05/2009 23:20:08
Hi John,

I have had a Elu PS 274E compound Mitre chop-saw, the predecessor  of the newer DeWalt DW 771, for over ten years now and I can fully recommend it. As Paul says, they are very accurate. If you are looking for a bargain, perhaps you could see if there are any "shop soiled" models around at reduced prices.

Happy hunting, Bernard.
Thread: Powered respirators
25/04/2009 10:38:40
I am thinking about getting myself a powered respirator to use around the workshop and wondered if any of you out there would recommend one over another. 

I have seen that Trend have just brought our a new model and there is also the Aircap. Both or these have the motor in the helmet. I seem to remember Racal used to make one where the batteries and motor were worn around your waist and an air tube went up your back to supply air to the hat. Perhaps there are more out there that I don't know...

Any thoughts would be welcome, Bernard. 
Thread: TS side extension table.
03/04/2009 00:33:43
Hi John,

Thanks for sharing your photos with us, they have given me some ideas. 

This thread is partly continued on the Classified forum.

Cheers, Bernard. 
31/03/2009 01:01:30

I recently posted a thread on the classified section about looking for an extension side table for my Elu ETS 22 table saw but without luck. Nobody seems to have heard of it, so I am now toying with the idea of making one out of wood. I am thinking of making one along the lines of a torsion box. Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks Bernard. 
Thread: Stanley 45 combination plane
07/02/2009 21:50:42
I recently obtained an old Stanley 45 combination plane that I would like to restore to it's former working glory but t doesn't have any blades. I have seen a newer version although discontinued, of this plane, a 12-250D, that comes with a set of 18 blades, that fit my 45, but the shop keeper would only sell them to me if I bought the plane as well. So, I wondered if anybody out there knows how or where I could find a set of blades.

Many thanks, Bernard. 
Thread: Workshop flooring
07/02/2009 21:39:48
Hi Jeremy,
I am soon to be doing the same but on my own property. 

First of all, to level the floor don't use a levelling compound. I once used it on a bedroom floor with very poor results. In the end I had to do it by hand. 

Here's how: I made the floor completely flat by adding a skim of mortar. To do this, I first found the highest point of the floor, then from this point make two (or three) horizontal parallel datum lines about two or three inches wide, right across your room, with mortar. When dry and hard (next day), fill in the space between then with more mortar, scraping with a straight  edge supported across the datum lines, until you cover the whole floor. You should end up with a smooth flat floor and sore knees!

You could then just lay either ply or  chipboard over a sheet of plastic, to stop the damp rising, or better still, as I intend to do, lay wood batons, the same thickness as rigid foam insulation, (about 3cm) over a sheet of plastic across your floor. The foam or extruded polystyrene (not the white bubbly one) usually comes in sheets 60 cm wide, so I would cut it in half and use this as the spacing between your batons. Finally fasten down your ply or chip board with screws to the batons.

The beauty of the above system is that you don't have to fix it to the concrete floor. It is rather like these floating floors that can be found nearly everywhere. The weight of the materials used holds it down. Another important fact is that the floor won't sag between the batons as the extruded polystyrene also gives support. 

So there you have it, a flat and sturdy insulated floor that you can dismantle and take with you when you leave.

I hope this will give some food for thought. 
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