Here is a list of all the postings Paul Bodiam has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Workshop heating and humidity|
Sorry -for picking up belatedly to your thread on workshop heat & humidity. I have a purpose built 5m x 3m wooden shed workshop at the end of my garden that I mainly use for building and repairing/restoring musical instruments.
I had it insulated from the outset, using polystyrene sheets under the floor and in the walls and roof.
In the winter I heat it with a small domestic fan-heater. In the summer, keeping it cool is the bigger problem. For guitar building, temperature swings are not so important as humidity changes. Provided that the temperature doesn't go below around 3 degrees (when glues and finishes on the shelf can be badly affected) you should be find. I have a "frost" setting on the fan heater that prevents the workshop getting this cold when unattended.
In the summer, the solar gain from the sun coming through the window heats the unattended workshop so that it is stiflingly hot - so I tend to open up the doors and windows and let it cool for an hour before i want to work in there.
When I am not in the workshop, current projects are stored away from the windows, and on or near the floor to keep the heat and humidity changes to a minimum.
To control humidity I have a very old Ebac dehumidifier that comes on automatically if the humidity goes above a certain level. This was never designed for a woodworking workshop so I have to take it apart every now and then to clean out dust that gums up the works. These dehumidifiers do come up second hand from time to time on eBay.
If your workshop is newly built, you will probably find that the walls and floor will still be quite damp from the water used in the mortar and concrete. It may take a while to dry out fully. I was surprised how wet the wooden workshop was when it was first built; I moved my machines in a few days after it was completed, and the cast-iron tables of the bandsaw and pillar drill flash-rusted in a couple of days. After i set up the dehumidifier, it was initially producing 3 or 4 litres of water a day as the timber of the workshop itself dried out. I didn't move any of my tonewoods into the workshop until the humidity had stabilised after a month or so.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Bandsaw - Ripping down|
Ripping on a bandsaw is an inexact science, and wandering blades is a problem. As others have said, keep a wide blade just for ripping.
I used to have a Dewalt DW100 3-wheel bandsaw which would never rip reliably without wandering around. Eventually I traced the problem to the main casting on the frame which holds the slide to raise and lower the top blade-guide. It had a small amount of casting flash left over from manufacturing, so the top guide was always twisting the blade very slightly. After a bit of fettling the blade was reliably parallel to the fence and things improved a bit, but I didn't really get reliable rip-sawing until I traded the DW100 up to a big Axminster BS350 bandsaw - and even then I still have to take it gently and keep a "ripping-only' blade.
I am a guitar maker and often have to rip very expensive pieces of wood down to around 4mm thickness. Any blade wander is likey to result in onother piece of expensive fire-wood.
|Thread: Black & Decker DN339 Bandsaw|
Exactly as Wilf said - the DeWalt DW 100 bandsaw is internally identical to the B&D DN339 model. Many parts are interchangeable between the two machines.
|Thread: Power and heating|
I've already replied to John's private message but, for the benefit of others, here is what I said:
When planning the electrickery for my workshop I listed the power consumption of each of my tools: e.g:
- bandsaw 1.5 kW
- planer thicknesser 1.2 kW
- sanding thicknesser 1.5 kW
- lathe 1 kW
- linnisher 700 W
- pillar drill 600 W
- heater 1.5 kW
- dust extractor 1.1 kW
- lighting 150 W
Then I worked out the worst case of machines in combination - using the bandsaw or sanding thicknesser with dust extraction on a cold winter's evening = 1.5 kW (bandsaw) + 1.1 kW (dust extractor) + 1.5 kW (heater) + 150 W (lights) = 4.25 kW
Divide the number of Watts by 240 to get the maximum current draw:
4250 / 240 = 17.7 Amps
So my workshop needs to have a supply capable of delivering *at least* 17.7 amps. Double this for safety.
Then you need to consider getting electricity from your house down to the workshop. My workshop is at the bottom of the back garden and the house fuse-box is by my front door, so we ended up routing an armoured cable all the way around the outside of my house, through the garage, and then burried it under the back garden. This was a run of around 20 metres.
My friendly local electrical contractor quoted me for supply and fit of appropriate gauge armoured cable to allow for 40 Amps over a run of 20 metres. They charged me £705 (inc VAT) to install a 40A breaker into my fusebox, install the armoured cable (I had to dig and backfill the trench) and safety-check and certify my wiring in the workshop.
As far as the workshop wiring is concerned, I bought a "garage consumer unit" from Screwfix which provides a 30 Amp breaker for sockets and a 5 Amp breaker for lighting. We (my brother in law and me) put a ring-main into the workshop, run through 20mm trunking with armoured wall-mounted sockets at just above bench height. We allowed two double-gang sockets per machine (power for the machine + power for a light + 2 spare) and 4 double sockets behind the main workbench (to allow for powered hand tools, plus radio). I also set up a "charger shelf" beside my bench with 4 power sockets with the chargers for my battery-powered devices permanently plugged in, rather than having to dig out the chargers and plug them in when I need them. In total, I installed 20 double-gang sockets around the walls of a 3m x 5m workshop. This may seem like far too many sockets, but they are pretty cheap from Screwfix (especially when purchased in bulk) and I don't want to have to add more sockets later, and I appreciate the flexibility of always having a spare socket right where I need one - for instance, the other day I needed to do some power sanding on the lathe so I needed to use 3 out of the 4 sockets by the lathe (lathe + worklight + orbital sander).
|Thread: Design and draw software|
I use Sketchup to visualise designs in 3D before making sawdust. See this thread for a comparison of the Sketchup visualisation and the finished project...
The original photos were taken in February when I completed the first pergola. Since then I have built a second one and aded custom-made trellis panels.
Here are a few more pictures of the pergolas taken in June after things started growing.....
Sorry for joining this thread late, I've only been an occasional visitor to this forum recently.
I applaud your ambition to make an accoustic guitar. If you have acess to The Woodworker digital archive (or fancy purchasing some back-numbers) I wrote a series of articles in 2012 on buildig a tenor ukulele (published july 2012 to december 2012) which covers all the same techiques as building a classical guitar, just at 2/3 scale.
These articles gave rise to this thread: http://www.getwoodworking.com/forums/postings.asp?th=68823
Where in the country are you located? If anywhere near me (North Hampshire) I'd be happy to meet for a beer and a chat about instrument making.....
|Thread: Power chuck|
Sorry for the late reply to this thread, Jason.
I have the same RP3000 chuck kit sitting in a drawer in my workshop - although with a few more pieces than shown in your picture. I used it for a couple of years when I first started out but it is a bit fiddly and inflexible.
Eventually I invested in a good scroll chuck with 3 different sets of jaws, and a dedicated faceplate which I use for bowl turning.
The only thing I still use the old RP3000 Chuck for is when I need a screw chuck. I keep it permanently configured as a screw chuck.
When we moved in to our house a little over 2 years ago the garden was neglected and somehat overgrown. My sole contribution to improving the garden was to clear a section at the end for my workshop, and dig a trench for an armoured cable to get power to the workshop (you can see where my priorities lay)
We've now had the garden landscaped and I've built a pergola ove the path to the workshop door. All the joints are mortice and tennon with a turned peg - no metal fixings in this project!
There will be another, smaller, pergola in front of the workshop. Now Mrs B would like a Lutyens style bench.
One day I'll get back to making musical instruments - which is what I built the workshop for in the first place!
Edited By Paul Bodiam on 27/02/2018 16:21:40
Edited By Paul Bodiam on 27/02/2018 16:22:34
|Thread: Black and Decker Band saw|
The Black & Decker DN 339 shared many components wit the Dewalt DW100 bandsaw.
The Burgess bandsaw that Derek links to was a different beast altogether.
Here are some links to spares suppliers for the Black & Decker DN 339:
I don't know if either of these supplies stock manuals, but there are useful exploded diagrams on both sites that show where everthing goes.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Paul Bodiam on 02/06/2017 12:59:07
|Thread: Bifold Doors|
A bit of a departure from my usual stringed instrument projects....
When we moved into our house in late 2015, there was a large open doorway between the kitchen and conservatory, which made the kitchen very cold in the winter and far too hot in the summer.
I designed some bifold doors to fit the hole. I used Sketchup to make the designs (it's free and pretty easy to learn )
|Thread: first atempt at colouring|
I like that......
|Thread: Padauk timber for sale|
How much do you have?
What price are you asking?
Definitely interested in smallish quantity.....
|Thread: Guitar repair...|
Edited By Paul Bodiam on 06/12/2016 14:56:05
Thought you might like to see a guitar repair I was recently asked to do.
This was a child's (half-size) classical guitar that had been knocked over onto a hard floor.
The head had snapped off along the grain so a repair was pretty straighforward.. It is typical of cheaper instruments that the grain doesn;t run true in the neck - all the intruments that I build use quater-sawn or rift-sawn baords for the neck with the grain running along the neck for both stability and strength.
A large chunk of the original veneer was missing so I decided to strip off the remaining veneer and fit a new mahogany head-facing.
Sanded, sealed, polished with micromesh and finished with 3 coats of tru-oil.
The owner had lost the original ut (the bit that holds the strings in place) so I made a new nut and set the string heights correctly, then returned it to its owner..
Edited By Paul Bodiam on 06/12/2016 15:01:09
|Thread: elektra beckum 315|
Sounds like the starter capacitor on the motor is on its way out.
Here is a link that explains what a starting capacitor does: **LINK**
If you are comfortable with working with electrickery, this is comething that you can fix yourself - you can get replacements from eBay (other online traders are available) for a few quid - just make sure you get one that matches both the *rating* and physical dimensions of the one you take off your motor.
Otherwise a local electrician should be able to help you out.
Where are you located? If anywhere near me (North East Hampshire) I'd be happy to help for the price of a really good cuppa.
|Thread: Next generation....|
It's been a bit quiet around here lately, so I thought you folks might appreciate this:
My elder daughter (15) heard I was making a batch of pens, so yesterday afternoon she decided to make one for herself.....
|Thread: Congratulations Derek.|
Ditto what Ron said. An informative and well-written article.
Are you planning any more articles?
|Thread: Oak desk|
Nice to see you back, Mailee . I was getting worried that we hadn't seen anything from you for a while.
Lovely looking piece of furniture.
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