Here is a list of all the postings Roy Oxlade has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Scheppach TISA 5|
Thanks Al for the positive feedback on the SIP 10
Dust extraction I can put up with or get round but something that cannot cut accurately is pointless, I could cut a better line with my handsaw. The other issue is the 2.5 mm dip in the middle of the table, with a straight edge across it the gap in the middle is starring out at you, so time to shift the tin top and get an iron top.
Well I have come to the conclusion that this saw is made for course cutting on a building site. It cuts well and with good depth but has no accuracy. The fence supplied is misaligned and they are sending out a new one but I don't think it will achieve my wish of true and straight without a fight. I have been using an axminster power tool guide clamped across the table but this highlighted an issue with the riving blade because the wood now has to follow the fence the riving blade stops progress unless you push it away from the fence to allow the wood to pass. I now question myself with "am I being to accurate, should I really expect a cut over 250mm to be within 3mm" ? On inspection the riving blade is twisted and cannot be aligned with the blade from top to bottom and across its full width so another issue on a saw less than two months old.
I think I have no choice but to purchase something like a 10 inch SIP and throw the Scheppach on Ebay.
I have now made up the power cable and have this machine running, it certainly has the power and speed to deliver nice claen cuts. Downside is the fence, it is crude, really crude and must be replaced with something more accurate and easier to setup to give repeatable cuts for what I expect.
The one thing I will be fitting is a proper accessible E stop that can be foot operated, perhaps as it is sold domestic they do not require one.
|Anyone seen the Kreg bandsaw fence,|
If this is anything like the fence on my Kreg router table then it is well made and would be ideal for a table saw fence if they did it with two side rails and a longer fence, infact you would have a Bieseymer style fence which would be much better than many fences fitted by the OEM, and much better than the one on my IScheppach TISA 5.
Any thoughts or views etc?
|Thread: Scheppach TISA 5|
Next episode, still got nut's, screws and bits everywhere and now the sliding table attachment has arrived and guess what, yes another hopeless manual and more bits. I immediately thought there was a problem because the two attachment plates were not handed, both being identical but on close inspection this is how it is, really highlights the standards German engineering has go to compared to the days when they were overly meticulous and I suspect it is partially assembled in Germany but with most parts imported. Already spent £15 on new washers and fixings because the ones supplied were not that good, and with slots you need the larger penny washers which they don't supply. Now I find there are missing fixings for the table attachment and I think that this is going to be returned for refund as it will cause more problems than it is worth, the money then will buy a decent fence as now the one supplied has been fitted there is about 4mm movement at the far end which is not right. Will check that there is nothing missing or not fitted!
Overall given the chance again I would not purchase a TISA, maybe the Precisa is better foir the extra £1000!
Once it is running and cutting will give the final feedback and let you know how I get on with the fence. Can anyone recommend a decent aftermarket Biesemeyer style fence ?
Well I purchased one of these table saws and thought I would provide some feedback. It comes partially assembled, you have to do the rest and the first obstacle is that the instuctions are really hopeless. The Scheppach product guide is good because at least the picture of the TISA 5 gives you some idea what it should look like, the booklet that comes with the saw provides Sketchy diagrams that need a lot of interpretation.
I was not impressed with the quality, compared to my Kreg router table which is more substantial with better fixings. The Kreg frame is heavy angle that is fixed using uses 8mm coach screws whilst the Scheppach is pressed tin fixed with 6mm bolts and the washers are to small. It certainly does not feel like good solid German engineering but then I suppose new German cars are not as good as they were and they are even more expensive. The fence is really crude, but until I try it I cannot comment but gut instinct says that I will be fitting a better one at some point, any recommendations? Well I will continue the assembly saga and once up and running I will continue my feedback and let you know how it performs and how accurate. I am also unsure why they call it a "site saw" because it is 230 volts and not 110. You also have to provide a plug and wire it to there German two pin connector, been nice if they provides the cable!
|Thread: What table saw ?|
Some are obvious like the ones on extension cable drums and others may be within the motor and should reset once they have cooled down. Not sure on the Bosch but being German it should have some protection. Let us know what your friend finds,
Have you tried it lately, cutting out sounds like it got too hot and a thermal cut out tripped, unless it was smoking before hand ! Not sure if the cut out automatically resets or it is a manual reset on your saw. Next step will be to check the motor itself which you will need some basic test gear, namely a megger and a multimeter to check for open or shorted windings. Any other symptoms before it stopped or just after ?
To start getting an idea on what money buys I looked at the likes of Clarke in Machine mart and they are toys, plastic fences and wobbly fittings you could make a better cut with a handsaw. So it looks like a lower price is at least £400 to get something that will make accurate and repeatable cuts. Leaning towards Scheppach and SIP, with Charnwood and Axminster on the sidelines.
|Thread: Pocket Hole Jigs|
The Kreg is I believe the original, UJK is the Axminster brand, I have found no issues with the quality of the kreg jigs and their clamps are very good. With MDF I use pocket hole screws, a couple of dowels with my Dowelmax to maintain alignment and glue, you get a strong joint. Always use the right screws as they pull the joint together without splitting.
|Thread: Events Diary|
A couple of dates for the diary:
North of England Woodworking show @ Yorkshire showground in Harrogate between 20th and 22nd of November 2015.
Woodworking Scotland @ Royal Highlands showground in Edinburgh 25th and 26th October 2015.
|Thread: What table saw ?|
Thanks for the reply, and yes I agree with safety but sometimes being too safe makes people complacent ! I think that I need to be more specific as to what I want from a table saw and then find something that suits my needs. I have been using my Kreg router table to trim and size but it is not ideal so hence the search for a table saw. I do not need the capability to cut full size 8 by 4s as I just do not have the space, what I do need is to cut down offcuts and trim 4 by 2s and smaller, cross cuts are done on my Bosch mitre saw. Having visited several woodworking shows last year I should have taken more interest in table saws but unfortunately I had other requirements. The other issue is quality, a very contentious issue and often issues seem to be more highlighted in self build machines.
Going to re-phrase my question, what table saw are you using and what do you like and dislike about it? Also do you always get what you pay for? I have read that some people on other sites have brought more expensive gear that is not as good as some cheaper stuff which contradicts what I have always believed in that you always get what you pay for within reason. Another good topic hear is why can Americans use table saws with exposed blades yet we British cannot be trusted and CE marking insist on blade guards and braked motors, it is not as if Americans have more fingers and therefore can afford to lose some.
all the best Roy
Have a good Bosch 315mm mitre saw but am now looking at a table saw and need some of your experience. I want accuracy and repeatability with cuts not a site rip saw. I am looking at the offerings from Axminster, the TS 200 or TS 250, Charnwood W619 8'' but as yet not convinced by schappach & record.
All your thoughts and opinions appreciated
|Thread: Pocket Hole Jigs|
I have both the Kreg kit and the larger one that does the 2 1/2 screws and they make many jobs easier. For example I made the frame for a large cupboard for a new boiler and hot water cylinder from 3 by 2's and used 2 1/2 kreg pocket hole screws. All the screw holes were hidden once I panelled the outside, it is strong and only took a morning to make.
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