Here is a list of all the postings Colin LLoyd 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Eucalyptus Gunnii -of any woodworking use?|
There are more than 900 species of Eucalyptus - but the most common one in the UK is Eucalyptus Gunnii (Cider Gum) because of its tolerance to below freezing temperatures. From internet images of bark, leaf, fruit, flowers - I believe this is what I have in my garden. Before consigning decent-sized lopped-off branches to recycling or firewood - can these dense, heavy and plain-grain branches be used successfully in either woodturning or carving?
|Thread: Wood Stabiliser|
Thanks Cedric - that's what I need. However - I can't seem to source this product - neither Amazon or ebay have entries. Even the UK Cuprinol website does not appear to list it and phoning the Cuprinol UK technical advice gave the reply that they haven't produced this product for many years - mainly because there are many types of wet rot and the product didn't quite deal with all of them.
Ronseal do a Wet Rot Wood hardener which seems to be available everywhere - but one video seemd to indicate that it darkened the treated wood. It seems to be an acetone solvent based resin that replaces the wood moisture with resin. Have you truied the Ronseal version? Tetrion also seem to do a similar product.
Thanks for the Cuprinol tip - I will investigate.
With regards to the scrollsaw - this is most effective on plywood scrollsaw work. I usually partially finish the plywood before I even start cutting. By this I mean - sanding down the top surface, grain filling, re-sanding top surface, then use the diluted melamine lacquer on both top and bottom surfaces. This then means I don't have to worry about finishing the delicate cutouts and bridges of the final design. I can just brush on full strength lacquer to finish.
I want to work with cross-sections of wood comprising bark, sapwood and heartwood. The transition between the sections is often fragile especially between bark and sapwood. Is there a preparation (either commercial or DIY) that will stabilise the wood texture without greatly altering the properties of the wood - notably colour and grain pattern.
In my scrollsaw work I often "paint" the prepared wood I am to use with diluted Melamine lacquer to provide a better cutting edge that doesn't splinter. I have tried this with the bark/sapwood interface - but the wood absorbs so much.
Just wondered if there is a better solution (pun not intended) out there.
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