Here is a list of all the postings Jeremy Micklem has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thanks for the ideas, guys. A lot of people seem to like Titebond I or III for normal use.
For the cold, I might do some trials with different types of glue when the winter's upon us.
|Thread: vertical drill guide help|
Axminster Tool Centre in Devon do various drill guides, and deliver outside the UK.
My (rather basic) answer at present to drilling vertically has been to buy circular bullseye spirit levels for my two cordless drills. (Same supplier, about £3.50 each.) The idea was to position the drill exactly vertical, then glue the bullseye level onto the back end (which is uppermost when drilling vertically downwards). Not really able to comment yet on how well this works, as I only glued them today...
|Thread: Finish for Green Oak to use marker pen on.|
In case it's of interest, I have a black gel pen (bought at a small sub-post office that also does stationery). The ink is light-fast, and perhaps more viscous than in a Sharpie. I tried it on unsealed, seasoned oak, and it seems absolutely fine: no bleeding, just crisp handwriting. Whether it'd go as well on green oak, I can't say; I've not tried.
I'd have thought it'd be easier to get a good result writing onto bare oak than onto a finish, tho' I've not experimented a lot.
I agree with the other guys, if you'll be wanting to seal over what people have written after the big day, it'd be wise to practise on scrap first, as some finishes could smudge the ink, or be incompatible with your initial sealer if you use one.
And re sanding: excuse me if I'm stating the obvious, (from what you say it sounds as though you could be fairly new to woodwork,) but the board will be PLANED after being sawn, will it? The woodyard can probably do this for you on their machinery.
Hope it goes well.
Thanks Al. A cabinetmaker I know locally uses it too. Could be the one to go for.
|Thread: A cracking mallet|
I've had my beech mallet for many years, and I recently noticed for the first time hairline shakes in the end grain of the head. Can anyone tell me, is this the beginning of the end, or is there something I can do to save it? Being a trained furniture maker (some time ago) I feel I ought to know the answer myself, but...
(As to WHY it's cracking, I doubt it's got 'too dry' as my workshop isn't heated. Just finer weather lately here in Sussex than the storms of February...)
Thanks for any ideas.
A couple of 'sticky questions' for the panel...
i) I've used Evostik Resin W PVA since I was at school in the 70s, and those pieces are still holding together, so I'm kind of attached to it. Trouble is it's pricier than other PVAs, but my fear is that a cheaper one might fall apart a few years down the road. Does anyone have long term experience of other glues, as to whether they last the distance?
ii) My workshop is unheated, so I'm also looking for a glue that will go off properly overnight in winter when the temperature's down to 0 degrees C. Any suggestions?
|Thread: Superglue for furniture?|
Thanks, Al. I've not seen the job myself yet, but it sounds like Gorilla Glue could well be the answer.
Thanks, Dennis and Al; very helpful ideas.
Any thoughts on how long the bond might last with these two, compared to something like PVA or Scotch glue? I remember reading that some early superglues (which these presumably are NOT) could fall apart after not very long. Any longer-term experience?
Does anyone know how long 'instant' glues will last?
I'm looking for an adhesive that will give a strong bond on hardwood in a few minutes, but will also LAST. It's no good if it'll come unstuck in five years' time.
The job is to repair a sideboard door which is split in the area of the hinge screws.It's a site job some way from home, so I'd like to glue and rescrew on the same visit if that's possible without compromising on longevity.
I'd be grateful for any advice. If you could specify what brand you are describing that could be helpful (though not essential), as I expect they vary. Thanks.
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