The problem with setting up a
workshop is that it's rare to have
a completely clean sheet of paper
on which to design your perfect solution.
and you have to make do with what's
available. Usually you're forced to convert
an existing garage, shed or outhouse and
this puts an immediate constraint on the
layout you can adopt.
In many ways though, this actually
makes the job of planning the workshop a
bit easier; it can be quite daunting starting
completely from scratch as you become
overawed by the sheer range of options.
Remember that the aim is to create a
warm and friendly environment in which
to work, not a clinically sterile space that
you're afraid of messing up with shavings
and dust. A disorganised and untidy
workshop is unpleasant to work in and is
probably dangerous as well, photo 1.
Personally, I derive pleasure and
inspiration from working in a light and
airy environment with everything to hand,
photo 2. Using wood is a frustrating
enough experience at the best of times,
so try to make it as simple as possible.
1] A disorganised workshop can be dangerous to work in, and a lot
of time is wasted trying to find things
2] ganising your tools so that they're readily to hand makes for
more pleasurable woodworking
3] If you're using a garage, bigger machines can be put on wheels
to allow them to be moved to one side after use
4] A wide doorway is vital, a double one even better
First considerations
So what do you have to consider when
planning the workshop? At this stage I'm
assuming that the workshop is to be for
hobby use only, but if you intend using it
for business, there are a whole range of
other factors to be taken into account.
Many woodworkers have to make do
with a garage, and convert this, or part of
it, into the workshop. And if you still need
to maintain access for the car the situation
becomes much more complicated, as
everything has to be on wheels to allow
it to be moved to one side after use,
photo 3. Also consider the implications of
bringing a warm, wet car into a workshop
full of dry tools and seasoned timber. It's
far better to have your workshop as a
dedicated building; the car is better left
outside anyway!
Access and services
You'll need to consider the big question
of accessibility, but from a number of
viewpoints. If you're converting an existing
building, electricity and plumbing services
may already be available, but if you're
building something new, then essential
services need to be nearby. Putting up a
shed at the bottom of the garden may be
the ideal answer, but can you get power
down to it easily?
Physical accessibility is important as
well, so a wide doorway is vital, a double
one even better, photo 4. If you're using
heavy machinery, the workshop should
ideally be on the ground fl oor; you want to
avoid having to get your table saw through
an upstairs window. I know, I've done it!
Remember that you'll also need to
receive deliveries of materials, and to get
fi nished products out of the workshop. All
this is greatly complicated if you're not on
ground level.
Do I need planning permission?
If you want to build a permanent structure, it's wise to
check with your local Planning Authority about how big
you can go. You're allowed to make additions to your
property up to a certain percentage of the existing fl oor area
without getting planning permission. Sheds and other
similar non-permanent structures are less regulated, and
you can generally put one where you like, but a phone call to
the Planning Offi ce is always wise, as there may be specifi c
local restrictions in force.
Home or away?
You also need to be able to get to the
workshop easily yourself. If it's a hobby,
you'll want to pop out to it whenever the
fancy takes you, even if it's only for a few
minutes. If the workshop is any distance
away, the spontaneity and pleasure is
lost. It's far better to have something
smaller where you live, rather than a grand
workshop to which you have to drive.
This situation is somewhat reversed
if you're embarking on a woodworking
business. In this case
it is better to have
the workshop away
from home, and to
physically 'go out
to work' and, more
importantly, 'come
home' from it.
Noise control
Consider also the
social aspects
of siting your
workshop. If you
intend using
machinery or power
tools, remember that they make quite
penetrating noises and often for long
periods of time. Your neighbours won't
be impressed if you spend hours working
with a router.
Installing insulation, photo 5, will help
with the noise problem and also save
precious heat. In a wooden shed, lining
with Rockwool and then covering this
with a vapour barrier and ply or cladding
provides a very effi cient and cost-effective
noise-reducing barrier, photo 6.
If your structure is a brick one, the
sound problem is usually less severe,
particularly if it's a cavity wall construction,
but consider fi tting secondary glazing
(either glass or Perspex), photo 7,
keeping the air gap as big as possible. If
you're working in a garage, don't forget
the doors. The up-and-over metal type
transmit every bit of sound, as well as
being very cold in winter, so stick some
form of rigid insulation to them.
5] Fitting Rockwool or similar blanket insulation will greatly
reduce the escape of both noise and heat
6] Covering the insulation with a vapour barrier and ply or timber
cladding increases the insulating effect
7] Consider secondary glazing for the windows, using either glass
or Perspex held in plastic framing
8] Big sheets can usually be cut down into smaller sections outside
the workshop; few have this much free space inside
Size matters
The actual space for your workshop is
often predetermined and you have to work
within it. If not, and you're a lucky enough
to be building from scratch, bear in mind
that size does matter. Again, this comes
down to what you intend making. If you
anticipate machining 8 x 4ft sheets on
a regular basis, then plenty of space is
necessary. But remember a big workshop
has to be heated, and you'll end up
walking miles in a day as you move from
one part to another. The occasional big
sheet can usually be broken down outside
and then brought into the workshop for
fi nal cutting, photo 8.
Space organisation
If you're just turning, the actual working
space needed is far less than that of a
cabinetmaker or joiner, but it's rare to have
the opportunity to set up a specifi c turning
workshop, and the lathe is often squeezed
into a corner with little regard for its safe
and effi cient use.
In my opinion, it's far better to divide up
the workshop into defi nite areas, with all
the necessary tooling set out nearby. You
can do all the machining in one space
where you need lots of room, then move
into a smaller area when it comes to the
assembly and then fi nish in another clean
area. This way you only have to heat and
light the area where you're working, and
dust/mess control is much simpler too.
RICH KELLOW
