1) For the lattice you will need a piece of timber 50mm diameter by 8mm thick, a reasonably tight grained timber is best, I am using Lemonwood, and for the jig you will need a piece of timber or MDF approximately 100mm diameter by 20mm thick (photo 273) You will also need a scrap timber for mounting to the lathe.
2) On the Jig timber first mark the true centre followed by a second centre (the lattice centre) this point is half way between the centre and the outside edge. This can vary depending on the centre you require for the grooves. (photo 274)
3) Next mount the scrap timber to the lathe, face it up then using hot glue stick the jig to the scrap timber on the lattice centre, (photo 274) then at a speed you feel comfortable with, turn a recess to loosely accept the lattice blank, (photo 281) the higher the speed the better but be aware that the timber is rotating off centre so the lathe may shake violently if it is not fixed down. (be aware excessive turning like this may cause the bearings to wear,)
4) For the next step we need to mount the lattice jig back on its true centre and using a small amount of hot glue fix the lattice blank into the recess, (photo 286) Now from the centre point mark 3mm spacing across to the outside edge of the lattice blank.
5) Using a 3mm parting tool cut a groove to a depth of 4mm In the second space, then missing a space cut a second groove in the forth space (photo 288), now repeat the process across the timber. (Photo 290) after checking the depth of the groves is correct, and with a thin chisel gently remove the blank from the jig.
6) After cleaning off any excess glue from the recess in the jig, we need to remount the lattice blank. To do this we not only flip it over to the reverse but also turn it so the centre is facing out (photo 297) then cut the second set of grooves, by simply following the grooves turned in the jig, cutting to the same depth as side one, when nearing the final depth care is needed, (photo 299) we don't want to be rough and snap the lattice, continue across the face of the timber to complete the lattice. (photo 300)
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7) Finally again using a thin tool either a chisel or as I do a six inch steel rule gently tease the lattice away from the hot glue, it is at this point when most lattices snap, a shame after all the work getting this far, If the lattice is stuck to hard take it and the jig off the lathe and put it in the microwave for a couple of seconds to soften the glue, not too long though (photo 306) if you are careful and accurate with your turning you should end up with a finished lattice. (photo 351)
8) Some points to remember,
- The process to turn a flat lattice is simple and with practice can become easy, however unless you pay attention to your marking out they will look untidy, accurate marking out and turning will make the appearance pleasing
- The depth and width can be adjusted to suit your own needs, but a bigger recess will be more prone to snapping unless the remaining timber is adequate. Likewise a thin small recess is not as strong so more attention is required when cleaning up.
- The lattice will rarely come off the lathe without the need for “cleaning up” this can be done easily with a fine pointed knife and a set of needle files.
- When you have completed your lattice don't throw away the jig it is already set to turn this lattice and can be kept for any needed in the future, making sets etc.
- For an alternative to the square edge of a lattice try a small beading tool, like the one available from Ashley Iles, Also remember that the tool needs to be firmly held so as to not snap the lattice during turning so don't opt for a small/miniature turning tool unless you are turning a small fine lattice, and even then take a lot of time and care.
The process involved in any “lattice” is simple, turn grooves in opposite sides and on differing centres of a piece of timber so that where they meet there is a piercing. It really is that simple and this flat lattice is the basis for many variations of turning them so have fun and enjoy turning them.
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