Here is a list of all the postings Bob has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Any views on this package please?|
With Faithfull Tools you get what you pay for, however I ordered and bought a rebate plane through my local Home Hardware shop; although it was labled and painted with the Faithfull colour, it was in fact a Record; after checking over and using it for the job I got it for, I could'nt fault it. At approx. 5/8ths of the price of a 'genuine' Record, and including a fitted wooden box and delivery to my local shop; I reckoned that it was a bargain.
|Thread: What's a "thread i.d."?|
The last couple of times I have submitted a suggestion to an appeal in the Bench Banter section of the Forum, I am asked for a thread i.d.; although the system still appears to accept my submittion.
|Thread: Squeaky Hinges|
Once upon a time the 3 in 1 people brought out a P.T.F.E. spray in a small arosol can; P.T.F.E. is colourless, oderless etc. Hope this gives you another choice.
|Thread: Sheared Screw|
I believe that 'Turner's Retreat' sell a purpuse made screw extracter/hole saw; I got the community centre to buy one when I had to replace sam worn hinges and the screw head was grounched. Although I did'nt pay for it myself, I think it was about £5-6.
|Thread: Going Down?|
Sparky et all,
I also agree that the project photo's are intimidating, besides who wants to see photo's of repairs on items that really should have been replaced?
The comment on the fequency of visits, in my case anyway, is that I have to use someone else's computer, mainly this means once a week; the community centre wich I volunteered at now charges
|Thread: Pitch Pine|
I have had to work on pitch pine at the Community Centre that I volunteer at, it was originally built for Passmore Edwards and he had (has?) a reputation for insisting that all the materials and workmanship he paid for was of the best quality. I've repaired a cut down door which, as far as we could work out, was from the original building, and it was still sticky after 130 years! some of the other doors have 'gone' at the bottoms, but have been 'plated' with plywood, and are soldiering on.
|Thread: stable door|
A stable door is great to keep animals and kids under control; but don't forget: never have glass on the bottom half!
|Thread: Workbench Design|
I appreciate that's its a bit late, but there is a book called (from memory): "The Workbench Book" by John Landis; it's probably out of print, but you should be able to order it through your local library. It's an American book so presumably so is Mr. Landis, but it's got some great ideas.
|Thread: Bathroom sink unit|
Just a suggestion: if the underneath of the sink is to be hidden in a cabinet, I would suggest that the bottom (floor) rail be made from Tanalised wood; the bottom corners, hidden out of sight, rot without you realizing.
|Thread: Blanket Chest Lid - Suggestions Required|
If you like metal and plastic, then 'Ironmongery Direct' have proper bedroom furniture stays of several designs; look them up on the web and order a free catalogue.
|Thread: Workbench Design|
An easy way of filling in the well if you want a part time one, is to have the well the same width as the planks you are topping the 'bench with; so that you can just drop a length (or 2 or3....) of plank in to fill the well. If you want to angle the sides of the well then just keep the 'other half' of the piece for the drop in.
|Thread: drive way gates|
Just a suggestion: you could always go to large outlet like an agricultural merchants, and rip of their designs, (I doubt whether they registered and thus protected). A camera-phone might be useful. Then you can modify the approved design to fit the "hole".
|Thread: It defies logic really|
I believe most Tesco,s have a recycling bin for U/S or unwanted plastic bags, (the Helston branch certainly does).
The thing that bugs me is that I've been saving margarine and ice cream tubs for several years, waiting for Kerrier Council to catch up and start taking them; no go, so I'm putting them out with the rubbish, (normally one Tesco carrier bag every 2-3 weeks), 1 large bin bag at a time, 3 down and an estimated 2 to go.
I just wish buracrats would get their acts together, just once in a while.
|Thread: The spokeshave|
Assuming that the spokeshaves are complete, with no bits missing; the main thing is getting the cutting iron sharp - just treat like a plane iron. This means that you may have to regrind the edge, (it isn't compulsory), make sure that it is square to the sides, and honed correctly.
I've used one for over 20 years, mainly to trim and shape replacement handles, such as: axe, sledgehammer, hand hammers, shovels, etc., etc..
|Thread: smelling wood|
If memory serves me correctly, Laurel smells of almonds: this is the cyanide gas being liberated into the atmosphere. The bush/tree uses it as a defence against insects!
It is bad enough outside, but in an enclosed space (indoors); it could be a real problem.
|Thread: Video - Sharpening a plane blade|
I clicked on the link - but no arrow.............
|Thread: Either a write up here or in mags|
I was told many years ago thet the head you use is the one you need for the next stage of the job, i.e.:
1) Countersunk if you are going to fill the head prior to painting or are going to put something over the head, (its in the middle of a multi-layered construction).
2) Roundhead if you want the screw to bear down on the top of the item that you are fixing to the wood, (for example fixing a rim lock to a door).
3) Raisedhead is a lower version of a roundhead; Panhead is a flat topped version of a Roundhead.
4) Bugle.........., I can't see in the picture, perhaps I know it under another name; anyway, where do you buy these non-countersunk heads from? Screwfix has a very limited range of non-countersunk/traditional types.
|Thread: Video - Sharpening a plane blade|
Is it me?
There is no way that I could play the video - Sharpening a Plane Blade, which is featured on the Home page.
I know that I'm a bear with very little brain, but can there be instructions please?
I seem to remember being able to mix the sawdust with a glue (wallpaper paste?), and casting the mix into 'bricks', which you could then burn.
As the memory is a bit hazy, I think it must be from the oil crisis of the '70's.
|Thread: Tifflin' & fiddlin' & fettlin'|
I've just read the above, and appreciate the work involved;but: was it really worth it?
I used the above article to set a new Stanley No. 5 up straight from the box, and found the information invaluable; I'm sure it saved me a lot frustration and swearing, but I didn't bother with flattening the sole, as I don't do that type of work - I do bodging and repair (as cheap as possible).
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