Here is a list of all the postings Olly Parry-Jones has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: It had to happen sooner or later!|
|Very sorry to hear that, Al. I hope that this doesn't lead to ill effects with any other species you like to use. Never would have thought of padauk as being quite that bad but then, I've not worked with it.|
|Thread: Disc sanding plate|
|That looks useful. I particularly like the inventive use of a pillar drill table.|
|Thread: What or which mitre saw|
If you're after a saw for accurate cuts then, I'd certainly try to stick to one of the 'known' brands (Makita, DeWalt, Bosch, Hitachi, Metabo, etc.). You could even get a very good saw for a very reasonable price second-hand. As far as I can see, the only feature that allows the Evolution/Rage saws to cut through metal has to be in the design of the blade, doesn't it? There's no reason then, that you couldn't simply buy one of their blades and fit it to your saw. Even if you had to purchase an additional bush or reducing washer to fit inside the bore.
Generally, you could expect to find that larger saws tend to be less accurate than ones with a smaller blade diameter. I used to own a 12in Bosch (GCM 12 SD) and the head would flex from side to side by a good two or three millimetres as you pull it forwards. It wasn't brilliantly accurate but, neither was it repeatedly inaccurate, which is, perhaps, worst of all!
After that, I purchased a second-hand Makita LS1013 and it's been superb, even after several years of use on site. It has a 10in blade, will cut just over 3½in/90mm thick and to a width of about 12in/300mm, with reasonable accuracy. It also seems to do 45° mitres and 90° without having to tinker with the settings much at all.
If you could live with the capacities of an 8in saw (60mm depth of cut?) then, there are some good ones about and, even buying new, you might be able to get one for less than £300. Bosch came up with a good one a year or two ago and, with its low weight, it was seen as ideal for carrying around from job to job. Makita do an 8in model (LS1014, I think) and that has a feature where the saw slides on two sets of dual-rails, meaning they consume less space behind the saw than many others, which usually have two rails (sometimes, only one) behind. That could be worth considering, if your workshop space is constricted.
Personally, I like sliding mitre saws in a small workshop because, unlike a table saw, their working height is above most other machines, which means longer lengths of timber will usually clear most of your other tools. To use a table saw, you'd probably have to move other things around (as well as the saw) in order to crosscut.
|Thread: exstractor help|
I also own an ADE1200 extractor and have done so for over three-years now. It works very well in my set up although, I'm not a woodturner... It mostly gets used with my planer thicknesser and is ideal for extracting large shavings.
To some extent, an extractor like this one will also remove an amount of fine dust from the source but, with only a cloth filter bag on top, a lot of those very fine particles will simply escape back in to your workshop - and, consequently, your lungs; hence, the importance of also having a decent air filter. However, I think I noticed in the most recent Axminster catalogue that they might not stock cartridge filter upgrades that are compatible with several of the ADE models... At over £50 though, it does escalate the costs somewhat!
Another option might be to look for a second-hand extractor on eBay or similar. A lot of them are very similar, just disguised behind a different name or colour. There isn't much that can really go wrong with a dust extractor, either.
Another positive point is that these 'High Volume Low Pressure' extractors run very quietly. You cannot say the same for many HPLV vacuum-type extractors (particularly Record Power's RSDE extractors, which work very well but, at the same time, they are very noisy when running, which may be distracting (unless, perhaps, you can isolate it in a separate shed or outbuilding?).
While the ADE1200 may be quite large for some workshops, I managed to save a little space by building a plywood box for it to sit on; in to which I can store some of my power tools, etc.
Before this extractor, I owned a predecessor to the AWDE5002 model, which can be mounted conveniently on the wall. It didn't seem any less powerful or effective than my current extractor. However, the collection bag does fill up very quickly and, without a zip, it's a real PITA to empty! Perhaps you would come up with a better solution?
|Thread: Tablesaw inspiration?|
If you do decide to go for a new blade then, I highly recommend Freud blades (you can get them from Toolstation, among other places). They're very smooth and quiet when running and cut very cleanly, too.
As for the saw itself, I'm not sure there's an awful lot you could do, as all machines need a certain amount of ventilation to prevent the motor from overheating and failing prematurely... Insulating the walls of your workshop might be one idea, if you haven't done so already? If you didn't have a demand to cut sheet materials then, you could probably get along with a bandsaw instead to cut solid timber, which would run much quieter while not cutting.
|Thread: TV Table|
A nice piece, I like the style.
Have you used Miller Dowels on the top or, are those just plugs or dowels cut for decoration?
|Thread: Timber Identification.... help needed.|
|Not sure how safe turpentine is when used on surfaces that are going to come in to contact with food... I'd second Bill's recommendation for Chestnut's Food Safe Oil, which is basically liquid paraffin, if I remember rightly. Tung oil is safe to use, if you have any of that. I have also heard that vegetable oil can go rancid after a short while.|
|Thread: Got any ideas?|
Assuming he could borrow a router from someone, he wouldn't necessarily need a template... Instead, this would be an ideal job for a bearing-guided rebate cutter. Trouble is though, I haven't seen one that will cut less than 1/8in or 3mm wide.
Would that extra 1mm all round be too much?
Sorry, that's the best idea I have and it's something I've done in the past (woodwork, not electrical) to overcome similar problems.
|Thread: Bristol/Portishead, beginner after hardwoods..|
Welcome to the forum and, to the world of woodworking!
You're nearest supplier is probably Staddons in Clevedon, if you haven't found them already? I've been using them for the past six-years and have always found them to be very helpful. They can prepare and machine timber for you (at a cost) if you don't have the time, kit or confidence to do it all with hand tools. I've always found their softwood (joinery-grade redwood, not spruce or whitewood!) to be of a very good quality. I've found them to be slightly dearer than a couple of places in Bristol but, Staddons' quality was so much better.
They do a small range of hardwoods as well (ash, oak and sapele, I think - all imported) which might be enough to get you started. If you're only after scraps and offcuts then, you could try calling around the local joinery shops, etc. to see what they're throwing out.
Unfortunately, you'll find that a lot of merchants round here won't let you select or lay your hands on what you're buying until it's literally in the back of your vehicle (health and safety, and all that). You'd have to go further afield (Interesting Timbers, Oscar Windebank) if you ever want to hand pick your boards and get a feel for what a real working timber yard is like.
At some point, you'll probably want to set aside some time for a trip down to Yandles in Martock, who are often seen as one of the most welcoming yards/mills around, with their impressive selection of timber inside the self-selection wood store. They even plane one face of each board for you, so you can clearly see what you're looking at. They also have a shop full of tools and other goodies and a coffee shop!
Hope this helps for now. Remember the old adage: buy cheap, buy twice!!
|Thread: First stool|
|Looks good, Oli. Also good to hear that you've learned something along the way. Some of the joints look quite challenging for a beginner, actually.|
|Thread: bible box|
|That looks superb and the carving looks to be perfect. What chisels do you use, out of interest?|
|Thread: A Box fit for a future King & Queen|
What a fantastic commission and a truly outstanding piece of craftsmanship.
Have you had any new enquires since the big day?
|Thread: First timer -|
I don't have any preference as such... My one piece of advice though, would be to avoid buying the stuff from B&Q - £9 for a 125ml bottle!!!
There are a lot of places that will sell the same size (under different brand names) for a lot less... I used to buy the Liberon brand from Toolstation for about £4. But, looking at their website, they only appear to stock their own-brand bottles at around £6 each (see here). I don't think you'd go wrong with it; it is, after all, only knotting!
Colron and Rustins appear to be cheaper online (before postage) but, I'm not sure where you'd buy them offline... I guess you might find them in another DIY shed, if you're already heading that way, like Homebase or Wickes perhaps.
Elea - welcome to the forum.
Derek's advice is sound although, I would advise you to get hold of a 'Knotting' solution and to treat all of the knots before you do anything else.
Best of luck with the doors.
|Thread: I am Back|
Very glad to hear that you're on the mend, Sam. Hope all those pills aren't going to keep you away from the workshop? They often say that physical activity is one of the best cures for many illnesses, particularly ones that have affected your mentality.
Are you on 'security' again at Yandles? I might be down at some point...
|Thread: Elektra beckum HC260E, Vintage ?|
|If you have any photos of your new machine then, I'm sure that would help. I've seen mortising attachments on other machines (they're most commonly found on combination or universal machines) where you also have a table that can travel along three axis' (X, Y and Z). Never used one though so, I cannot comment on whether or not they are any better than a budget-priced mortiser. Could be useful, though.|
|Thread: sand paper|
If you're after rolls or sheets for hand-sanding then, as others have said, I've also found the brands available from Screwfix to be of a fairly good quality. You're better off sticking to a known brand though, whichever you go for (Norton, Hermes, Bosch, etc.). Red or yellow, for general woodworking, is fine. Anything cheaper or un-branded though and you'll probably find it loses its 'edge' too fast and that the grit falls off in what seems like seconds.
I had this experience once with some Silverline-branded yellow aluminium oxide rolls from Toolstation. Now, I only use the really cheap stuff if I want a non-slip surface on a jig or similar.
Abranet is excellent but, certainly not cheap, initially.
There are also several options for abrasive discs and belts.
|Thread: More step by step photos?|
For anyone interested, I've just uploaded some new work-in-progress photos to a new album titled 'Suspended Floor'. It's not in the same "fine woodworking" vein, like the majority of the folders, here, but, it might prove to be interesting for some. I've begun building this so that I can hide most of the junk and shelving units taking up space in my workshop. Also, it should give me somewhere to store longer lengths of wood.
Edited By sparky on 15/02/2011 12:51:44
|Thread: Forstner bits|
|Wealden's Sawtooth forstner bits are very good for the price. It's only a shame they don't do them in sets.|
|Thread: Too much chatter|
Are you taking heavy cuts? Anything over 2mm in a single pass? That could account for some of it, if it's consistent along the full length of a cut. Dull knives can also cause similar issues.
My knives weren't brilliant when I bought my machine, back in 2007 - I didn't fully appreciate how dull they were until I had them sharpened professionally and re-fitted them in to my machine!
I must admit though that, even when taking a fine cut (<1mm), I get a bit of vibration at the end of a cut but, no snipe, which is kind of what it sounds like should happen.
How is it when thicknessing?
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