Hi, I'm pretty new to this woodworking stuff I'm on a very limited budget, so can't afford big machinery plus i have nowhere to put it. I wondered does anybody have a solution to getting stock from thicker pieces of lumber, without getting ripped of by the timber merchants. i.e. getting a piece of 1" then splitting it down for use and if i'm going to have to invest in something what should i get that can be most universal (preferbly a hand tool or something that will fit in a cupboard) Thanks in advance, Pete
what sort of thing are you hoping to make, and what sort of workshop space do you have?
The reason I ask is that 1" is a pretty standard thickness of material to work with. I wonder if you mean ripping big boards down into narrower boards of the same thickness? What are the overall dimensions (length, width, thickness) of the wood you have in mind, and what sort of wood is it?
Whatever it is, if you aren't going to use machinery you are going to get a bit sweaty!!!
Hi Mike, i was looking in the magazine Practical Woodworking at the tool chest, the authur says buy some 2700x150x25mm boards but the cut list has nothing thicker than 15mm in it. After spending a evening trying to do the maths and not getting it to add up I realised that the 25mm thickness has to be split down to provide the 15mm & 10mm thickness on the cut list. Or have i missed the point completely. Pete
For a start, you won't get a 15mm and a 10mm board out of the same piece of 25mm wood..........there is a thickness of the saw cut (kerf) to take into account, plus 2 faces to be planed. You could easily lose 5mm or more in total. I am not familiar with the project......maybe someone else can assist.....?
Why don't you do your own cutting list? Given the plans, it is not difficult to extract a list of all the individual sizes of pieces..........amalgamate those of the same thickness, then gradually add things together until you get a list of boards to buy. Adapt the plans rather than follow them slavishly: if you have 20mm timber rather than the 15 that the drawings call for, assess whether using this will make any great difference and use it if you can.
Not many people here would willingly tackle re-sawing 6" by 1" timber. That really needs a fairly industrial band-saw to do satisfactorily, and it is virtually impossible with hand-tools.
Also, don't forget that 25mm planed timber will probably be 21 or 22mm thick (it is ex 25, ie planed from a 25mm sawn board). If the cutting list suggested 15mm finished thickness, that would normally mean planing 6 or 7mm off the board. Do-able by hand with the right equipment, but hard and skilful work.
Thanks Mike, I knew i was missing something simple. As the plans in the Mag shows drawings and specs for each piece all i have to do if fit each piece around what i have, that makes a lot more sense. Why don't these mags explain the simple things, it may be all right for a professional chippy to say get 3x 2700x150x25 and then provide a cutting list that varies from 5mm to 15mm in thickness, if you have a well equiped workshop but for the poor hobbiest..... Thanks for your help Pete
If you are new and are having problems with timber thickness, why not try MDF to start, it is a lot more forgiving to mistakes whilst learning and can be veneered to give a reasonable finish. Just a thought?
Fill in your profile, let us know roughly where you are (county) Then perhaps someone from the forum, with the facilities would size your timber for you, for a small recompense.
A cheaper option than buying PAR from a timber merchants.
Timber prep, getting stick from thicker boards... There are many ways to do it and it can be done entirely by hand if you don't mind getting a bit hot and sweaty. Easiest way to resaw ie get two thinner boards out of one thicker board is with a bandsaw but you could make yourself a frame saw and do it by hand.
As I say you get hot and sweaty but it's possible to do. This is what you end up with.
Alternately if the board isn't thick enough to get two boards out of it and you just need to dimension it, again by hand - it's not that hard to do given the right tools and a willingness to work up a sweat.