Welcome to the online home of Good Woodworking and The Woodworker
Friday 29 August 2008 | Personalise | Help  
Register Free
Join GetWoodworking now
why join?  
Members Logon
Email:
Password:
forgot your
password?
Latest Issues

GetWoodworking is the website of Good Woodworking, The Woodworker and Practical Woodworking magazines. Here's our current issues.







My Hobby Store
My Hobby Store
Schools
  • Advertise your school here
  •  FORUM
    Discussions by:   Latest Posts | New Discussions | Hot Threads | Forum Topics
     Search forum: 
     in 
    Getting started with hardwoods
    1 to 14 of 14 messagesTo post a reply you need to be a member - Join now.
    Show/hide user stats

    Hi,

     As I'm just starting out I don't have much stock in my workshop, it's mainly pine, either from previous projects or offcuts from some recent building work I've had done to the house.

     Been practicing my joints with this stuff, but I think it's time I gathered a stock of hardwoods to produce pieces with more variety and character.

     So where should I begin, what wood do you recommend I start with, something that is easily workable and won't blunt my tools in a few minutes would be nice!

     Thanks,

    Conor.

    Show/hide user stats

    Conor,

    I'm a big fan of sticking with pine until you are completely confident of your tools and skills. I used pine exclusively for over 10 years.........and it was a really big moment when I bought my first hardwood.

    However, if you have reached that big moment, I would pick your timber depending on your project. Have you a piece of work in mind?

    I think that a lot of the woodwork schools suggest sycamore, because it is cheap and easy to work. My first hardwood purchase was ash.........and it is still a favourite. Beech is easy to work too. I always thought of oak as the King of Timbers, and put it on a "I'm not good enough to work with that" pedestal. I would still suggest you try others first..........and then try American White Oak to begin your oak experience with because it is straighter grained and therefore easier to work than European or English.

    I would emphasise though that they are much more expensive than pine, and so it is worth hashing up projects in the cheaper wood before you move on to the hardwoods. The other point about hardwood is that you tend to buy it as sawn boards..........so access to a planer thicknesser is useful, unless you are planning to prep all your stock by hand (not to be undertaken lightly!!).

    Mike

    Edited: 14/07/08 20:33
    Show/hide user stats

    Conor.

    I wouldn`t worry what hardwood you use, i would just be on the look out for any hardwood at the right price. Native hardwoods are the cheapest.

    Look in your local yellow pages for sawmills, go on a visit, remember cash always goes down well, especially if you only want small amounts.

    Making friends with my local sawmill owner has been one of the best things i`ve done, he knows so much about timber & is always happy to pass on his wisdom.

    Good luck Baz

    Show/hide user stats

    Hey Baz,

     I'm not sure about the "native hardwoods are cheapest" line.......at my local yard seasoned American oak is cheaper than seasoned English oak by a lot. 

    Mike 

    Show/hide user stats

    Mike, you're right; American timbers can often be bought for a fair amount less than what it'll cost to buy the "same" species but locally grown. Not only that, but all American and imported species' come with two square-edges and a lower moisture content, while English air-dried timber will probably be a little more damp and have two waney-edges (bark on).

    You should be aware that a species from one part of the world could be entirely different in grain, charcater and figuring to the "same" species grown elsewhere (ie. as Mike says, English and American Oak). My personal belief is that we should use locally-grown sustainable sources wherever possible... In your situation though, Conor, it's probably best for you to spend a few hours in a couple of different yards to get your head around things and see it all for yourself. Also be aware that some yards will include any waney-edges when pricing up what you're looking to take away/order!

    Show/hide user stats

    From a sawmill, you only tend to get native hardwoods & i`ve always found them lots cheaper than my local hardwood supplier.

    Also from the saw mill it`s is usually air dried, though it will need some more seasoning when you get it home.

    I try not to buy from hardwood outlets, their mark up is huge.

    Baz

    Show/hide user stats

    Olly,

    I concur with everything you said......except that I would point out that whilst American hardwood come square-edged, my woodyard at least imports European hardwood with wany edges.

    There is nothing for a newcomer to hardwood to fear from waney edges, though. A chalk line helps, as does a circular saw, and I reckon to end up with a bit more usable wood than I have paid for!! The most difficult thing is working out how your cutting list will fit on the wany boards.........but my local yard at least will help with this, as they have a computer programme.

    The other trick, Conor, is to have either a block plane or a paint-scraper with you when you select your timber. The boards are always covered in sawdust and grey gunk, and without scraping through it there is no good way of knowing what you are buying.

    Mike 

    Show/hide user stats

    Good point Baz; I only buy softwoods from timber "merchants" now. Sawmills and Yards are the places to go for hardwoods.

    Mike, can you give us an idea of how that computer program work? Is it simply that it calculates the quantity you want (in cubic feet) and then adds on 'X' percentage of wastage, depending on the species?

    Show/hide user stats

    Subtle difference, chaps.......but could save loads of money. Mine isn't a sawmill.........it is a timber merchant.

    I didn't see the computer programme in operation, Olly. I just know that you give them the cutting list and they tell you roughly how many wany boards of length x you'll need, and will tell you after they have measured your selection whether you have got enough or not.

    Mike 

    Show/hide user stats

    Hi Conor,

    From a usage point of view, Walnut is a nice timber to start on, it is one of the softer hardwoods so it has a little more 'give' when it comes to assembling joints etc, and it will certainly look different to what you are used to. 

    It's not as cheap as Ash or Sycamore, but then again you don't have to build a wardrobe to develop experience with a timber, making some smaller items like jewellery boxes, chopping boards for the kitchen, picture frames etc can be a very good way to learn about the way the timber behaves, experiment with different finishes etc.

    Cheers,

    Matthew

    www.workshopheaven.com

    Show/hide user stats
    The wooden hinges I have just made are my first experience of walnut.........and Matthew is dead right. It is very easy to work, and very forgiving. I can see why Sam Maloof makes his famous chairs from walnut (I think I'm right about that!).....
    Show/hide user stats

    Conor

    I think Mike is right about the first hardwood you buy will depend on the project. But buy more than you need because,

    1. You will probable under estimate.
    2.             Edited                              / Sorry I ment Mistake Factor
    3. You'll be left with some for your store for other builds.

    I started off with Oak and a too bigger project! You live and learn

    P J

    Show/hide user stats

    Hi Guys,

    Thank you for all the feedback

     Mike - I take your point about sticking with pine. I enjoy using the wood and hope to spend many more years using it, especially as it's readilyy available.

    The reason I'm hunting hardwoods is beacause I have signed up to an 18wk woodwork course (September) and would like to use the opportunity to begin experimenting with hardwoods to produce a couple of small projects (jewellery boxes etc) as well as starting to build up some stock.  What I've been looking at is something like this (ebay link)

    I'll keep you up to date on my progres.

    Conor.

    Show/hide user stats
    That looks like a pretty good deal is you're only making small items, like boxes. You've got to be careful when you see some eBay auctions for timber though, especially if there's a delivery charge. Otherwise, you can end up paying more than what the goods are actually worth!

     You say:
    Message: (1500 character limit)
    (Using the Quick Post will also register you with the site)
    First Name: *
    Last Name: *
    Email: *
    Security Image:This is a security image
    Write the characters shown in the image above (Case sensitive)
    I agree to the site's Terms and Conditions & Code of Conduct
      
      
     

    Change stats view
    Make external bookmarkAdd to My Bookmarks

    « Previous thread   -   Next thread »
    Home > Forum > Hot threads > [Materials]Forum jump  
    Subscription Offer
    Subscription offer
    Support Our Partners

    Visit The Gallery
    Join The GW Forum
    Come and have your say in the GW forum