 Thats good Mike 
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.jpg) Sorry Mike, but won't the sandpaper just wear away the wooden jig over time?  
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 None of the wood touches the sandpaper. The rails are 3 or 4 mm above the paper, and the bottom of the carriage about the same......and you move it around to share out the wear. The principle works well.......it is just difficult holding the tool in place, because there isn't really room between the rails for your fingers.
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 I have a jig to sharpen planer blades that I use on wet and dry on glass, works superbly, it is a Veritas product, bought with a voucher from Good Wood hints and tips. I can get the finest edge on hand plane irons with this as well, also one coild use a standard chisel honing guide on it with success. Derek.
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 Derek. How does the planer blade holder determine how much is removed, so that both blades remain equal. Is there a stop which controls the depth. Baz.
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Baz, Yes, the two buttons number two and four are depth control buttons whilst the other three are holding buttons. Derek.
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And whilst you are at it, get a grinding jig with a sliding carriage toolholder. This also came with a voucher. Derek.
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Yep, that's the stuff! I need all of those. Essentially, that is what I have tried to replicate in timber. The grinder one works fairly well, but should be more adjustable.....this jig in my photo at the top doesn't really work. Is the grinder jig a Veritas product as well, Derek?
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Mike, Yes, it is, the basic jig is sold separately to the sliding carriage, I first made my own carriage until I got another voucher. Derek.
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If you're gonna go for on of their honing guides Mike, I heaily recommend them. They're the best I've used, dead-easy to adjust an setup and they give superb results. The problem I've found with anything cheaper than this is the chisel/iron can move as you tighten the screws to secure it. No such problem with the Veritas though! They also sell a camber roller assembly, which allows you to obviously put an even camber on your blades (with practice).
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Oliver, Yes that is their new one, but with chisels I like mine nice and square, try mortiseing without square edges and see what you get, that is why I got a jig in the first place, when you put your irons of any sort over the fine grinding wheel in the grinding jig, they are so sharp already that they need very little honing, and the bevels are extremely accurate. Derek.
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 I would have thought the blade would have gone strait though the wet & dry. I was going to get one of those large slow wet griders at about £35. I take it don't bother! P J
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P.J. Just be careful not to catch the edge and tear the paper, I stuck mine to the glass wih spray adhesive, and it's easy enough to remove and renew when needed. Derek.
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Do you need to do the grinding first or can i get away with doing a silular jig on my oil stone. I'd like to be able to do the oil stone with on jig because i've seen it done by a chippy. O K i didn't see how Good the blade was after but to me it was Impresive. P J
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P.J. If the edge is good enough then honing should be enough, I'm sure you'll know when to grind a new bevel. Derek.
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Your Jig Mike, I'm going to have a go at making one with a clamp to hold the blade to the wood. So all I''l have to do is consentrate on moving the block I'll also exstend the side wings to give it more movement perhaps to put irons on. I've got the glass the wet & dry the spray adhesive all i need is a little time. I'll let you Know how I get on. P J
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Good on you PJ let's see it as and when. Derek.
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Just a tip, Paul....... ....even with a clamp, space the runners at least 3 inches apart.......4" would be better. Mike
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