I was sure... but I've not got your experiance (in fact I've had no exeriance). I'll be incorporating some ideas that will hopefully negate the problems of water getting in.
I'll used foam cored adhesize glazing tape topped off with a bead of silicon. I'm sure this will fail eventually but hopefully no quicker than external beading.
The glazing will be on pads in rebate giving a gap of around 5mm all the way round, the bottom rails I'll drill maybe 4 off 8mm holes so any trapped water can escape and moisture should be able to evaporate. Apparently when double glazing is fitted snug into rebates the edge seals fail realy quickly, this is supposed to prevent this.
Do you think these ideas might solve the problems you have come across?
They'll help Andy......but the very best solution is external glazing with a "floating" bottom bead.........one with spacers under it to allow a free flow of air to the underside of the unit, but with a seal on the top to keep most of the rain out. The very best Swedish -type windows have that bottom bead as an aluminium extrusion that clips into place leavinf a good air-gap, and the side beads have a raked back bottom end which is 5 or 8mm clear of the bottom bead.
A good tip would be to construct all of the components of your windows, then to take the whole lot to a local timber merchants or similar who have a pressure tank for treating the timber. They won't charge much (my entire conservatory only cost me £40), and you will have peace of mind that your work won't rot away in just a few years.
They won't charge much (my entire conservatory only cost me £40), and you will have peace of mind that your work won't rot away in just a few years.
Well, that depends, Mike... My local (which I briefly mentioned in another thread - no names though) were charging £15/cubic foot + VAT last time I was there... No doubt, that will have increased this year due to inflation, etc.
I think I have the same trend set and your explanation was not that bad but it would be realy useful to see the parts because I am not realy sure how to handle this project, so I would appreciate you taking those pics when you get a chance
After taking a look at some of the windows that need replacing I reckon that the origional boxes are still there and I will only need to replace the sashes, staff and parting beads ,weights, pulleys and cords, so this is where I will start.
After reading Mikes post about inside glazing it has confused me even more, because the window I had made, as in my origional post, appears to be glazed from inside, in pretty much the way I think you suggest, using a double glazed unit and a chamfered beading on the outside and an applied moulding inside pinned and siliconed in, if this is a bad method, maybe that is why it was cheap? but I don't see the problem if the wood is treated and primed before the DG unit is installed.
Several of the houses in our terrace appear to have there origional 1890's windows, so I guess I should try and take some measurements and try to get an idea of construction from them, but I still think modern glues and sealants must make the job simpler and longer lasting, being able to use silicone and modern paints should mean you can adapt the methods you use and still get a traditional looking window that is better than the horrible 1980's replacements I have now
the weakness of internal glazing is that if any water gets past the seal between timber and glass, then it gets into the house........rather than being stopped by the upstand of a rebate.
And yes, the new versions of the old windows are really excellent.......have a look at the link I posted to Mumford & Woods.
Thanks for good info. I'll look in to the pressure treating, I was going to dip the end grain in preserver but if the the price is right I'll go for pressure treating.
I've just had another look at the Mumford and Wood designs. These are externally beaded and have the drain/vent holes, a groove 3mm ish deep goes down the midle of the rebate, joining the holes and will stop any water going further.
I can stop the side bead clear of the bottom bead as well.
This is the kind of detail I'm wanting to get right at this stage, so thanks again.
Gavin, I'll try and get the pictures done later on.
I can see what you mean about the upstand of the rebate being on the inside to prevent water getting into the house, but if the inside moulding is pinned and glued to the rebate does this not make an upstand, then you can use putty or a chamfered moulding to shed water on the out side,sorry if I seem a bit dim but this seems to be the only way I can see to make the sashes without using specialist cutters and a spindle moulder, couldn't find your post to mumford and wood but I had a look on their site and got some good tech drawings, thanks for the info.
Andy,
It's a long term thing so no rush on the pictures, if I get the decorating problems sorted out I will get in the workshop and post some pics of my early attempts
I've got some pictures done. First one showing the Rebate in the bottom rails. Pencil lines show the missing groove down the bottom complete with drain hole, this should stop water reaching the inner bead. Thanks Mike for pointing that problem out.
Looking down on the side rail of sash, instead of using a bead to hold the double glazed unit in I'm using the complete inner face of the sash. This is screwed on. The screw heads will be hidden by the parting and staff beads.
Gavin, hopefully you can see the profiles from these.
Thanks very much for the pictures, they are very helpful and very timely, again , I was talking to someone about my idea to make my own windows and he wants me to make 2 for him, not sashes but it's a chance to practice and get paid! I will post some pics when they are done. One question, if you dont mind me picking you brains again, where did you get the brush draught excluding.
Once again thanks for your info,very helpful, hope the first window turns out as well as the mock up. If you can't find a rabbit farm and you have a compst heap, softwood shavings compost well as long as you dont put too much on at once and use plenty of green material with them, they make good garden mulch to.
I've started work on my first double glazed box sliding sash window. The overall size is 1920 x 1322mm. I've started a blog to record, in detail, how I'm making them.
I know alot of what I'm recording is going to be basic stuff to a lot of you folks. But I'm learning as I go. When I've finished the first one hopefully I'll be able to follow the blog to make another 7 without out having to think about how to set everything up all over again.
So if your interested have a look at http://slidingsash.blogspot.com/ . Any comments and suggestions would be gratefully received.
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