How did you blunt it so quickly?

D.

If the blade is jumping off the wheels almost instantly, then it sounds like your tracking may be off (the blade is not running on the centre of the wheels).

When you say you cannot cut straight with this saw, are you talking about using the rip fence? This may have to adjusted to compensate for what's known as  'Blade Drift'; basically, the cutting direction of the blade.

Hi Baz

I had a similar experience with a BS500  bought about 15 months ago, the blade supplied with it was near useless! My machine seemed to have been carelessly assembled and has a number of design faults. On the good side is has bags of power and came at the right price. The Alan Holtam DVD is very good indeed,it tells you all you need to know. Ive owned and used bandsaws for more than 40 years but I still viewed and learned from it.

  My answer to the blade problem is to recommend that you buy from the local cutter grinder/saw doctor who makes them on site from bulk lengths of blade, if he sells poor quality the local woodworkers soon let him know! my own preference is for 3TPI X1/2" skip tooth blades 

  Regards Mike

I wouldn't be without my Startrite 351.

Generally, I use 3 tpi skip-tooth x 1/2" blades as I do a lot of resawing timber into  1/8" thick veneer which I call 'real veneer'.

This thickness gives some meat to attack with a smoothing plane when cleaning up, without worrying about planing through the veneer. It also enables mitred joints at the corners of a box and it doesn't show 'ghosting of endgrain'  when veneered over dovetails. On small items, it is so much simpler to just clamp this veneer in place without all that fusssy 'hammering' etc.. Apart from the waste of the sawcut, it also stretches out precious walnut and the like.

So whatever you do, don't abandon a bandsaw because of blade problems. Unless you have a rogue, Friday afternoon job, then setting up as per Alan Holtham will usually solve problems.  

Regards

 John

Apologising to those, to whom I am trying to teach egg-sucking!  

Blade drift: 

Your fence, when tightened up in its channel, should be capable of being adjusted in an arc. (Like a windcscreen wiper.)  If it isn't, then buy or make a fence that will do this.

To cancel out blade drift:

Take a piece of thin ply or hardboard, about 18" x 12".

Square a heavy pencil line right along the length at 90 deg to the front edge.

Cut to the line on the sheet, freehand, as slowly and as accurately as possible. Cut almost right through.

Holding the sheet firm to the table, hands away from the blade, stop the saw. Now, using the inner edge of the sheet you just cut as a guide, draw a pencil line on the table, without moving the sheeet.

Take the sheet away and now adjust the fence on its swivel to the line on the table.

Tighten your fence and using another sheet with a fresh pencil line, ripe to the line using the fence. It should cut straight to the line. If not, repeat the above until it does. 

Do this everytime you change a blade.

Regards

John

Hello everyone,

    The trouble with my new Titan Bandsaw is resolved.   A set of new blades has turned the machine from an old-banger into a limousine.   It now cuts straight and true.  The original blade was a nightmare to use, but what I find difficult to understand is why some manafacters of bandsaws send out inferior blades with their goods.    What dose that achieve?  Disgrunted customers?

Cheers

Roy

In all honesty, I don't think there are ANY manufacturers who send out decent blades, fitted in their saws!

I guess it's all to do with cost and the fact that people would complain if the saw kind without a blade. It's the same with most table saws too; replace it with a Freud or CMT blade straight away. How many people would be happy to receive a table saw with no blade?

 (This pic should be at the bottom of this massage)

Baz

Sorry I'm abit late with this enter but i thought you mite like to see this Jig for the bandsaw as Norm ''would say a perfect circle every time'' and he's right!

This jig also does arches both the inner and outer cuts.

Mike, Its just a bolt the nut fits in top dado grove and titend from underneath can cut up to 6ft circle table tops.

P J

Nice jig, Paul. I've thought about making something similar before, but the problem seems to be finding somewhere to store it afterwards!

I also remember seeing Norm use one just like that for the very first time. When he said he was gonna cut a large table top on the bandsaw, I thought, "Yeah... Good luck!", but then, when I saw it all in action, I just laughed at how easy and accurate he'd made that terrifying task!

I am thinking of making something along the same lines for my bobbin sander, so I can create smaller circles and discs.

Careful Olly!

Think about it: a small, powerful drive wheel with a high-friction finish, pressed up against a larger wheel located such that it can spin freely about its axis....unless you keep a really good grip your work is going to go spinning! 

Don't worry Mike - that's what I do best!!

I'm totally put off from the idea of routing cirlces in timber because of there's a great risk of tearout, even if your using a hand-held router and jig.

As for the bobbin sander, the braked motor is incredible - it stops within two seconds of me hitting the red button, so if something should go wrong, I may survive unscathed!

Olly

The jig does work a treat the single wide leg is hinged and the hole jig hangs flat on the wall. the top is just 2 half inch thick ply wood the top grove holds the nut and the bolt goes under-neath in a smaller grove. You just need to find away of attaching it.Good luck i hope you got the other pics i sent you hope they were helpfull.

P J

Olly

The tightest at the moment in approx 18'' wide the cast iron table restricts adjust ment. look in my gallery for cable pics.

P J